Potosi & Cerro Rico

Background: Potosi's modern claim to fame is being the highest city in the world at 4070 meters. Its historical claim to fame is Cerro de Potosi (or Cerro Rico -- "rich mountain"), a mountain of silver ore. Combined with the silver mines of Mexico it profoundly affected European events, making Potosi one of the greatest boom towns in the history of the world. One website states from 1500 through to 1800 Bolivia, Mexico and Peru accounted for over 85% of the world's silver production.

Founded in 1545 Potosi soon produced fabulous wealth. According to some estimates up to 45000 tons (1.5 billion ounces) of pure silver were mined here from 1556 to 1783. After 1800 the silver mines were largely depleted, making tin the main product. However, the mountain continues to be mined for silver to this day.

Due to poor worker conditions -- primarily a lack of protective equipment from the constant inhalation of dust -- the miners today have a short life expectancy with most of them contracting silicosis and dying around 40 years of age. There are estimates as high as eight million indigenous miners who have died in the mines of Potosi from its foundation to the present.

Arriving in Potosi the first thing I did was climb to the top of the mountain, to approximately 4875 meters (town view picture 2).

Taking a tour of Candelaria mine was a journey into twisting tunnels of darkness and choking dust. Picture 3: guide holding a lighter to a stick of dynamite.

Picture 4: mine entrance. Picture 5: with so much dust in the air it was impossible to take a clear picture. Picture 6: ascending a tunnel.

As a closing act two gringos purchased sticks of dynamite for $2-3 apiece and blew them up in a field.

Bolivia