[NOTE: Because of the time in which the book was written, it contains some outwardly racist, ethnocentric material. I am posting the book here not only because Hugh was my third great-grandfather, but also because it contains both historical and anthropological data.]

         [PAGE 69] THE passage from Fernando Po to Cape Coast was completely yachting work in a smooth sea, light breeze, and cool atmosphere. The thermometer dropped 15° on clearing the island, and during the mornings and evenings we had most enjoyable weather. Our two or three feverish cases recovered, and a plague of boils that had set it, subsided.

         We anchored at Cape Coast on the 17th July [1872]. The Druid was here, and about to proceed to Elmina. The murderers of Mr. Joorst had been convicted and sentenced to be hung. Preparations were being made to put the sentence into execution, and a disturbance was anticipated. On shore, at Cape Coast, I heard doubts of their guilt expressed. It was thought that the native King, supposing himself bound to give up some of his people to our Government, as the murderers, had given up these men on the assurance that he had also power enough to get their sentence commuted to a fine, which he would pay. There is not doubt that he exerted all his power with Mr. Hennessy to get their sentence commuted to imprisonment or fine, and that [PAGE 70] he said that was the plan always followed by the Dutch. But Mr. Hennessy thought it necessary to impress the native mind at once with the British horror of the crime of assassination, and would not hold out the least hope of commuting the Judge’s sentence. It is even thought by many that the King himself was the instigator of the murder. He is not at all contented with the transfer to our “protection,” and is angry with the Dutch for leaving him. On the 22nd, at 8 a.m., the men were hung from a gallows erected on the walls of Fort St. George facing the town. To the last moment the people could not believe the sentence would be carried out, even the prisoners themselves could not be brought to think their King so powerless, having promised to rescue them. However, to prepare for the worst, they swallowed as much gold dust as their friends would bring them, and it was no inconsiderable quantity! This sure way of taking their property to the grave is usual with those about to die, and if it cannot be done, money, clothes, arms and food are buried with the body. I am not quite sure of the Fantee belief in a future life, but it exists to some degree, and little sheds are found near every house where food and water are regularly placed for the departed ones to refresh themselves, when they pay nightly visits to their old homes.

         The executions passed off quietly, a native prisoner in the fort, acting as Jack Ketch; not a person appeared [PAGE 71] in the streets. The bodies were afterwards buried in the Castle yard. There is no doubt that the Elmina people were much subdued after this event.

         The following story I related with great diffidence, not being learned in natural history, and having my eyes and the eyes of those who were present on the occasion alone to trust to, to guide me in describing what we witnessed. Captain the Hon. M. H. Nelson, H.M.S. Druid, and Commander Prescott Stephens, H.M.S. Bittern, were about to leave the Torch, on the evening of 26th July [1872], then at anchor off Cape Coast, to return to the Druid which was off Elmina, when our attention was drawn to a great commotion in the water at about half-a-mile from the ship, and presently a large eel-shaped fish, with dark back and white belly, put its head, or what appeared to be its head, about 20 or 30 feet into the air, and came down with a great thwack on the water twice, when a whale of a great size, bottle nose, length not less than 60 feet, sprang into the air, coming down with a splash that may be imagined. This was repeated two or three times, the wale ultimately going away to sea. I was told afterwards the other fish was a ‘thresher.’ It might have been its tail and not its head we saw, for its movements were too rapid, and the splashing of the water too great to see distinctly. It appeared to us, in size round, about twice that of a man’s body. The depth of water in which this took place was about 10 fathoms. [PAGE 72] Lieutenant Jeffreys and the officers of the Torch all witnessed, and all were equally surprised at the incident. I saw the same thing again a few days afterwards near Bootry, also in shoal water, but much less of the thresher appeared above water, and the whale’s jump was much higher and more frequent. I have seen whales jumping in this way also off the River Congo.

         On the 28th July [1872], we embarked a detachment of the 2nd West India Regiment and some Fantee police for Accra, a slight difficulty having arisen between two neighbouring tribes. We arrived next morning. The landing is worse than Cape Coast; on the open beach, with the Atlantic swell breaking on it, of course a surf boat had to be used. The canoe men sing the same kind of song; the refrain “Dash me, dollar!” was duly attended to by me, on going ashore, lest I should get a wet jacket.

         The town of Accra is much more scattered than that at Cape Coast; it is built on top of a red cliff, some 60 feet high, over-looking the sea. The country around has a parched appearance; there are few trees and few gardens. Formerly there were three Accras, British and Dutch close together, and Danish two miles east. Danish Accra is called also Christiansborg. The Dutch and Danes having left, Christiansborg is nearly deserted, and the other two towns have become one.

         Officials were scarce at Accra as they appeared to [PAGE 73] me always to be on the Gold Coast, and I found it difficult to find anyone to transact business with. Trade in palm oil seemed brisk, but not equal to Cape Coast. I met Mr. Freeman, a coloured gentleman, who had been for some years established as a missionary at Coomassie, and who spoke well of the Ashantees. Although the popular language at Accra differs from Cape Coast, the customs and dress appeared the same. A great many of the people are Christians. They belong to the Wesleyan body.

         On a tombstone at Accra is recorded that 300 soldiers, in whose memory it is erected, died there of fever in three days! I think there must be some mistake in figures about this, for the place is considered healthy.

         The fort is a very small place, used as a prison for natives. It is not a pleasant place to be confined in. I was told most of the prisoners there were in for debt. The creditors have to pay 6d. a day for their keep, or it would be more full than it is, for all Africans have a delight in running into debt, without an idea of how they are to pay. However none of the prisoners that I have seen in the forts on the Gold Coast, would bear inspection by our prison authorities or sanitary commissioners; the only thing I can say is, from what I have heard and seen, things used to be worse, especially with the Dutch. At Bootry I crawled into a damp cell, with just room enough to squat down in, without [PAGE 74] window - it was underground - or light of any kind, or air except what came through the chinks in the door which led into another room; this cell had been a prison to confine offenders of serious crimes in in the time of Dutch protection. At Appolonia, built by the British, the prison was lighted and ventilated by a hole two feet in diameter in the roof. This fort has not been used by us for several years, and the Dutch may have altered it. I have seen prisoners grinning through iron gratings at Elmina and at Axim from very unpleasant looking quarters.

         On the 30th we returned to Elmina. Here I received a commission from the Acting-Administrator to proceed to the Western frontier, in conjunction with the civil commandant at Axim, to endeavour to open the road for traffic between Assini and Axim, at present stopped by tribal wars, and to endeavour to establish peace in the district. Captain Nelson having given his permission that I should perform this duty for the colony, and having placed the Torch at the Administrator’s service for a short period, we proceeded on our mission on the 1st August [1872]. We took with us a large surf boat and crew of Elmina men for the purpose of landing through the bad surf. Mr. Molenaar, a half-caste gentleman of Dutch extraction, accompanied us as interpreter. He is a very clever linguist, and is acquainted with the politics and customs of the Western tribes. He was also entrusted with the [PAGE 75] presents to be given to the chiefs as “Dash,” as he knew what would be most acceptable, and the proper amount to be given to each.

         We also took Mr. Hughes as passenger to Dix Cove, of which place he had been appointed Civil Commandant. We reached Dix Cove that afternoon. It is a small native town overlooked by an old fort, from the walls of which was displayed the Union Jack. There were tow large slated houses, before which also the Union Jack was flying. I found they belonged to a native, who was intensely loyal to the British, and equally inveterate against the Dutch. He pointed with pride to some marks of shot holes in his houses, which had been made by his neighbours in the fort, when it had been in Dutch occupation.

         It is necessary before going further to say a few words in explanation of the political position of this country.

         Prior to 1868 all European nations had abandoned the forts they had established on the Gold Coast, to protect their trade and the tribes they traded with, except the British and Dutch. Their forts almost alternated with one another. Thus Appolonia was British; Axim, Dutch; Dix Cove, British; Bootry, Dutch; and so on. This system was found to work badly for both governments and led to many complications. In 1868 an arrangement was made, whereby all [PAGE 76] forts belonging to the Dutch on the Gold Coast, eastward of Cape Coast, were transferred to the British; and all forts belonging to the British, westward, were transferred to the Dutch. The natives who were “protected” do not seem to have had much voice in the matter, and, indeed, I do not think their wishes are ever consulted. The transfer created much discontent among the tribes who changed masters; but in our newly acquired districts, after a little while, the people became fairly contented. It was otherwise with the Dutch. Commendah flatly refused to receive their flag, and was knocked to pieces by the guns of a man-of-war for so doing; and Dix Cove received a good dose of round and grape from the fort, to bring it to a proper sense of its duty.

         Dutch officers were allowed to suppliment the small official salaries they received by trading, and as they used the forts as their storehouses, and paid no duty on imports, they drove all competition out of the market; and the import duties received to pay the expenses of the government were so small as to be only nominal. This was unsatisfactory to two parties: the Dutch government, who found the settlement such an unprofitable concern as ultimately to make it necessary to abandon it, and the old traders, English and native, who found themselves ruined by the Dutch official trader.

         Besides, the tribes under different protectorates had always been jealous of each other. Wars between [PAGE 77] neighbouring towns were frequent, and now Dutch Commandants came to govern and to judge all the western tribes, of course their old friends expected favour, and the former aliens disfavour at their hands; and they received it.

         Now, in 1872, the Dutch had again transferred the Western district to the British; there was joy at the former British stations, such as Dix Cove, but mourning and anxiety at the old Dutch stations, as at Bootry and Axim. The Administrator even thought that forcible resistance might be made to our authority at Bootry, so that I was directed to be present, to give support to the Commandant of Dix Cove, when he hoisted our flag on Bootry fort.

         Bootry is only a few miles from Dix Cove, and like the latter a small native trading village overlooked by an old fort. Our government did not intent to garrison the fort, or place a Commandant in the town, it was to be “protected” from Dix Cove. We proceeded to it next morning with Mr. Hughes and Doctor Goldsbury, who had been Acting-Commandant before Mr. Hughes arrival. Bootry is a pretty spot, with a better landing place than usual. White men had been rarely seen, and we were objects of curiosity. We met Captain Hoare, Messrs. Swanzy’s agent, trading here, and he most kindly promised to join our expedition. He knew the western chiefs well.

         The flag was hoisted at Bootry fort without any disturbance, or expression of feeling in any way.

         [PAGE 78] A salute of 21 guns was fired from the fort. I was present, but when I saw the way the gunners loaded the guns, I thought it better to take a walk. The King had lent Mr. Hughes some natives to do the honour to our flag. Their procedure was to take a small barrel of gun-powder under their arm and knock the head in; then tilting the mouths of the guns upwards, to pour into them as much powder as they thought would make a good noise, on top of which they rammed a wad of grass; another man primed with a horn and “devil,” made of damp powder, a third fired with a lighted stick which he swung about to keep it burning.

         Barrels of spare powder were kept in the rear of the guns!

         The salute ended without accident; and I was informed the native King had received our flag, and our presents. He and his chiefs had been received in the “palavar” hall of the fort, and duly admonished of their duty of loyalty to their new protectors.

         I found Doctor Goldsbury busy in the town vaccinating adults and children. He told me it had become a Fantee fashion to be vaccinated and to be able to show the marks on the arm, so that the demand for his services was extreme. Small-pox creates great ravages among the natives, but since the vaccination had become fashionable its effects had been palpably lessened.

         We returned to Dix Cove the same afternoon. [PAGE 79] Mr. Hughes’ and Mr. Goldsbury’s quarters were very wretched. The fort was in bad repair and very damp, and a famous preserve of centipedes and resort of snakes, etc. The furniture of it sold to us by the Dutch was mere rubbish. I believe we paid about the eighth part of their valuation for it. The two gentlemen I have named are the only white inhabitants. The fort is garrisoned by a Sergeant’s party of the 2nd West. Doctor Goldsbury had, previous to Mr. Hughes’ arrival, been Military and Civil Commandant, Military and Colonial Surgeon, Collector of Customs and held a few other offices, which he now divided with his colleague.

         The civil appointments on the coast are wretchedly paid, but the military are in comparison better off, getting additional pay, and a great deal of long leave to England.

         If the Gold Coast is to be governed eventually as a British possession, it must be done after the Indian manner, and our officers paid with Indian liberality.

         In a short walk through the town with Doctor Goldsbury, we came across a grave dug in the middle of the street. A corpse was about to buried in it, which the Doctor forbad, and the funeral party had to move elswhere [sic] and dig another grave. I was pointed out the ruined store-house, lately the property of Messrs. Swanzy, which had been destroyed when the fort had fired on the town. Doubtless the Dutch Commandant had his thoughts upon ridding himself of [PAGE 80] a powerful rival in trade when aiming at it. We went on to visit our loyal native friend, who gave us a welcome, took us into his upstairs front verandah and insisted on our drinking a bottle of excellent port wine which he produced; but port wine is not a refreshing beverage in Africa. The house although built in European style exteriorly, was kept and furnished in the interior after the native fashion of dirt and discomfort.

         The country round Dix Cove is so densely covered with vegetation that it cannot be a healthy situation. The open sea before it is the only redeeming point. I was really sorry to leave Mr. Hughes there - he looked so delicate.

         On the 4th August [1872] we arrived at Axim, which is to the westward of Cape Three Points. We towed Captain Hoare’s brig, the Alligator, round with us. At Axim I was sorry to find that Captain Shepherd, the Commandant, had left for Cape Coast, very ill. Dr. Johnstone was Acting-Commandant, and the only white person in the place. He joined me as a fellow Commissioner, and our work began here.

         Axim was an old Dutch settlement. The fort stands at the water’s edge, the town running along in its rear. It was a slightly better residence than Dix Cove, but the accommodation was rough. Doctor Johnstone was of a happy disposition, and made the best of it, and found [PAGE 81] occupation in trying to perform the duties of the many offices which fell to his lot.

         We summoned the King and Chiefs to meet us in the palaver hall of the fort the next morning at 10 a.m.

         We did not get them there before noon, and Mr. Molenaar was surprised that we got them together then, as Africans don’t understand being hurried.

         They appeared with as long a “tail” of followers as any Highland Chiefs of old; the room was full. His Majesty was dressed in a handsome silk cloth, and a hat with red and white feathers, and the Dutch Royal arms in front, sandals on his feet, and an apron of leopard skin. He gave us a welcome and shook hands, as did two or three principal chiefs. Our party, consisting of Doctor Johnstone and myself, Commissioners; Mr. Yockney, H.M.S. Torch, Secretary; Mr. Molenaar, Interpreter and Assistant; and Captain Hoare, sat at a table at the head of the room; the Governor’s stick-bearer and native interpreters behind us. Opposite, sat the King, his chiefs, stick bearer, public orator and “tail.”

         The stick bearer is the herald, and the stick he carries the known authority of his King. The sticks are canes, mounted in gold or silver.

         Our message as spoken by me, was interpreted by our interpreter to the King’s stick-bearer and orator, who delivered it again to the King, although he was within hearing all the time.

         [PAGE 82] The reply was brought in the same round-about manner.

         The King said that he wished for peace, and was willing to open the roads, but his western neighbour, Blay, Chief of the Ancobras, was a blackguard, who killed his men and stopped the road.

         We said we would visit Blay; and asked him to send envoys with us to arrange terms of peace.

         The King replied he would have no dealings with Blay who was a slave and no chief; the Ancobra country belonged to Amakee, King of Appolonia. Finally, however, it was agreed that the Axims would agree to any terms Amakee did.

         It transpired that war had been going on for four years, ever since the transfer, and that Blay never paid tribute to the Dutch. Blay and his brother, Affoo, had been subjects of Amakee’s. Affoo attained command of the army, rebelled and aspired to the throne. Amakee had to retreat to Assini in the French protectorate. Affoo burnt his town of Appolonia, then occupied by the Dutch, who garrisoned the fort, but on Affoo’s approach abandoned the place. Affoo wrecked the fort, spiked the guns, and destroyed the carriages. He then retired to the stockaded town of Assama, further east. Amakee received assistance from Ashantee and advanced again, when some traitor in Affoo’s camp cut off Affoo’s head and sent it to Amakee, who thought the rebellion would be thus at an end, but Blay seized [PAGE 83] the stool, and had asserted his sovereignty over the district between the Ancobra and Itanbo, and maintained it too, ever since, although both Ashantee and Axim had aided Amakee with troops.

         We also learnt that during the previous May the British government stick was sent to the Western chiefs to inform them of the transfer to the protectorate to us from the Dutch. Blay, to do honour to our Governor, sent two men to accompany the stick across the Ancobra. These men thinking the protection of the British herald perfectly sufficient were coming into Axim, when they were fallen upon, killed and decapitated within a mile of our fort. We told the King we should enquire into this matter, and arranged that we would go to Blay and Amakee and return to Axim after we had seen them.

         Some of the Axims had not pleasing countenances. One chief wore a thick iron chain around his neck, and looked as if he could enjoy a tender steak from a deceased Ancobra! But these people have not been cannibals. I am told the King was in a fright all the time he was in the room, and was seen several times to shake in his royal shoes.

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