[NOTE: Because of the time in which the book was written, it contains some outwardly racist, ethnocentric material. I am posting the book here not only because Hugh was my third great-grandfather, but also because it contains both historical and anthropological data.]

         [PAGE 161] ANNO BOM is situated 2º South of the Equator. It nominally belongs to Spain, as a dependency of Fernando Po, but there is no Spanish official on the island. No tax or tribute of any kind is paid by the people, no Spanish flag is flown, and a Spanish man-of-war is seldom seen there. There is no white man living on the island, and the inhabitants speak Portuguese. American whale ships call occasionally for wood and water, and a few of the people spoke English. Their account of themselves is that they are the descendants of a cargo of slaves wrecked on the island more than 100 years ago,

         There are about 600 people on the island, all living in one town at its north end.

         The island is high, and volcanic in its formation. It is covered with vegetation from the sea to the summit, and has a most refreshing look. But we were told that within the memory of living men, there had been two years without rain, when all vegetation died, and most of the people died of starvation. The island then looked like a cinder heap. As a rule, however, [PAGE 162] luxuriant crops are grown, although the soil is shallow and the people bad farmers.

         The most noticeable thing in the island is the number of churches. The people profess to be Roman Catholics. A man, wearing a blue blouse and a red handkerchief round his head, came to call upon me, to bid me welcome, and asked for a “dash” of candles. He told me that there were twenty-two churches on the island and several priests, and that he was the Bishop. I never saw any of the others who claimed the clerical office. The Schoolmaster showed me a torn missal, out of which he said he taught the children, and that was the only book I saw. The churches stood all round the town. They were built like the other houses, of boards, and thatched with palm leaves. The largest one, the Cathedral, was the only one I saw used. It has an Altar, with a crucifix on it, and a side chapel with the image of the Virgin. An oil lamp burnt before it. The floor was earthen, and the dead were buried beneath it. A large cross was erected before the door, and at every exit from the town was a cross and a chapel. From the enquiries I made, I found that the people were grossly superstitious, and their religion was strongly impregnated with fetishism.

         King David Carter governs the island. He also visited me, to ask for a “dash.” When I offered him some rum, as refreshment, he freely helped himself and his interpreter, Tom Bolan, and then put the bottle in [PAGE 163] his pocket! Then he said it was warm, and asked for a handkerchief, which he also pocketed, and then Tom wanted a handkerchief, which I gave, but told him it was time for him to withdraw, as I saw his object was not to welcome me, but to get what he could from me. In leaving the ship I was greatly amused at Tom Bolan throwing the bottle of rum the King had given him into the water, for a canoe to pick up, as he was afraid of not carrying it safely down the ship’s side. It sank!

         The people were very dirty and untidy in their dwellings, compared to the Continentals. They were anxious to trade poultry, eggs, and fruit, for biscuit, clothing, and, of course, rum, if they could get it. We had none for them; but it was a fine opportunity for getting rid of old clothes before leaving the Coast.

         Besides fowls, the only live stock on the island appeared to be a few pigs and goats. The vegetables were sweet potatoes and yams. They said that they used to grow very large cabbages, but they were out of seed. They were evidently a lazy people, and preferred living upon what grew of itself, with little or no cultivation, such as cassada, sweet potatoes, and bananas. There were pine-apples, oranges, limes, and wild plums in plenty.

         Tom Bolan and Alexander Smith had served in American whale ships. They had been to the States, and had learnt shrewdness in that country. These [PAGE 164] worthies acted as our guides to a mountain lake, which lays in the hollow of the old crater, 1,500 feet above the sea. It was a stiff climb up a slippery path to it, but quite worth the trouble. The view and scenery were lovely.

         The people seemed to suffer a great deal from skin diseases. The population has ceased to increase, so Bolan said, and there is often great mortality among the children. There are no vessels on the island large enough to sail to the main land, or the neighbouring Island of St. Thomas.

         Anno Bom would apparently make a splendid coffee growing estate.

         In one way, at any rate, Anno Bom is an earthy paradise. Money has no value! A packet of needles, or a hank of thread, would obtain us two or three pine apples. A sovereign, nothing! Even an old bottle or worn out stockings were better to take to market than dollars! I actually saw money refused on more than one occasion, and on one of these it was a “dash.”

         The visit of our three ships was a great god-send to the inhabitants. We did not find things cheap, compared to the Kabenda tarif [sic].

         The climate seemed good, and we were at the Island in the rainy season, when it would be at its worst.

         We only remained one day. The Coquette’s people were recovering rapidly owing to the change. There is [PAGE 165] nothing like immediate change of climate to kill African fever.

         We had heavy rains for a few days after leaving, and then a lovely climate in the South East trades until we reached Ascension which we did on the 21st January [1873]. The Coquette had then only ten fever cases remaining, and they were landed as soon as possible and sent to the commodious hospital which is always kept in readiness.

         Ascension is like a huge heap of ashes rising out of the sea. On its summit, at 2000 feet above the sea, where the ocean mists gather, is a little vegetation. Gardens have been established there to provide vegetables for the garrison, and grass enough grows to feed some oxen and sheep for their use. A regular supply of these animals is sent from the Cape of Good Hope.

         The island is kept as if it were a ship. A Naval Captain governs it, and its inhabitants are all seamen, marines, and their families. Not an even happens on the island without the Captain’s permission. I was even surprised to find that babies could not come into the world without his approval. At least, I saw an official document from the Surgeon reporting the advent of a little stranger, on which the Captain wrote “Approved. - J.B.C.”

         I thought that the officials on the Gold Coast were the greatest pluralists in the world, but the Captain of Ascension is greater.

         [PAGE 166] He is Captain of a ship of war, Superintendent of the Dockyard, Governor of the island, Sole Legislator, Chief Executive, Coroner, Public prosecutor, Chief Gaoler, and President ex-officio of all local societies, of the Canteen, the Library and the Cricket Club.

         The mail steamers call here twice a month, on their homeward voyage from the Cape, so that the letters from England go first to St. Helena and return.

         The staple product of the island is turtle. A considerable number of these animals are caught every year and issued as rations to the people on the island, or sent down to the ships on the coast as opportunities offer.

         Some of them obtain a great size, weighing as much as 5 cwt. each.

         There is a bird very like a seagull which resorts to the island to breed. It is called the “Wide-awake,” from its peculiar cry which has that sound. The birds lay their eggs at certain seasons of the year and in one particular place, which is called “Wide-awake Fair,” and as many eggs as can be carried can be picked up in an hour or two. They are very good to eat, in size that of a plover’s egg, and tasting something like a duck’s.

         The inhabitants of the island numbered 250, of which 80 were white women and children and 40 African labourers.

         As the whole establishment belongs to the Admiralty, the buildings will be understood to be of the [PAGE 167] same kind as may be seen in any of our Dockyards, and I need not say, that scrupulous order and neatness exists everywhere.

         There is a Canteen, where all necessaries, and many luxurities of life can be purchased at a most reasonable figure; a theatre, a billiard room, a bowling alley, and a skittle ground. There is shooting to be had in the game season, by obtaining a licence from the Governor, for which the charge is a modest half-a-crown. Rabbits, guinea-fowl and partridges are preserved on the “Green Mountain,” and wild goats and wild asses are there, if you can get at them and would like to fill your bag with such game. Tradition talks of pheasants, quail, and birds never seen now-a-days, having once been shot.

         The climate at the mountain is very pleasant, and a delightful change for men who have been any considerable time on the Coast.

         Coaling was a difficult operation at Ascension, owning to the rollers setting in. This is an extraordinary phenomenon. Owing to some unexplained cause, a heavy swell gets up to the leeward of Ascension and St. Helena, and breaks against these islands with great force, the wind and swell in the offing being strong in the opposite direction.

         We sailed with the “Supply” in company, on the 29th January [1873]. We had lovely weather across the line, but as soon as we felt the North East trade it got [PAGE 168] quite cold. In the few days the thermometer fell from 84º, at 8 a.m., to 64º. The wind kept strong against us and we were obliged to call at Dâkar, Cape Verde, for coal. This is in the French province of Senegal, on the mainland, opposite the better known Gorée, which is an island containing a dockyard, barracks, public buildings, and a very considerable town.

         Dâkar is a comparatively recent settlement, and much more convenient for trade than Gorée. I am surprised it is not better known. It is a coaling station for the steamers of the “Messageries Maritimes” Company which ply between Bordeaux and Brazil, and French Men of War, bound to Brazil, or round the Cape, coal here also.

         An artificial harbour has been formed, inside which ships lay very comfortably and safely. Steamers are coaled expeditiously, and provisions are quickly supplied and the charges moderate.

         The natives are a fine race of men, very black, but with regular features; they are Mahomedans; and do not give the French much trouble.

         The country around was low and sandy; but by artificial irrigation some well stocked gardens were to be seen; in the season enough cereals were grown for home consumption, and large quantities of pea nuts for exportation. The corn is stored in beehive shaped houses, thatched over, after it has been thrashed out. Wheat, barley, and millet are the kinds used. These [PAGE 169}people evidently live better than the natives of equatorial Africa.

         Several French ladies reside at Dâkar and Gorée, but they went to France in the three very hot months, July, August and September, if possible.

         At other times of the year the climate was not at all unpleasant, and at this time - January, it was quite cold at night.

         St. Louis, on the river Senegal is the capital of the province where the Governor resides, but the bar of the river is often impassable, and the entrance is always changing. There is a telegraph wire laid between Dâkar and St. Louis, and a telegram reporting the state of the bar is sent to Dâkar every morning. Once the bar is crossed the river is navigable for 500 miles.

         A large number of military convicts are employed at the coal depot, and on the public works.

         The coast is very well lighted. The light exhibited on Cape Verde is of the first order, which is necessary, as foggy weather is prevalent and the coast is dangerous.

         From Dâkar we sailed for Santa Cruz, Teneriffe, thence to Gibraltar, calling at Madeira, and thus we passed along the whole western seaboard of Africa from the Cape of Good Hope to Cape Spartel in the year, calling at most of the places of importance, and gaining such knowledge of the nature of the country and the character of the people as upset many of our pre-conceived ideas.

         [PAGE 170] In the first place, the climate is not so bad as is generally supposed, except at those places near the mouths of rivers where merchants have located themselves for trading purposes. I hope that it will not be necessary that they should remain in such situations much longer, for trade jealousies with the natives once being overcome, they may be able to move further into the interior, above the mangrove swamps.

         In the second place, the soil is capable of producing large quantities of food, of cotton, and other important articles of commerce. Cattle are easily reared. Timber and minerals are abundant, and the latent wealth of the country is enormous.

         Thirdly, the coast abounds in good harbours and large rivers, affording natural highways into the interior. The natives, if properly dealt with, soon become friendly, and are easily taught to be useful producers. They are daily becoming greater consumers of European produce.

         I had believed otherwise of West Africa; and although I had been on the Coast for a short time, twenty years ago, I had no idea that it was such a magnificent country. I have been to India. I see no reason this country should not have as great a future before it as that.

         If the facts mentioned in this book, as they came under my own observation, serve in a small measure to undeceive the English public, who may have formed [PAGE 171] a similar idea of the country to that I formerly entertained myself, I shall have gained the object I had in view in writing them.

         At the same time I do not go to the other extreme, and recommend it as a country for an Englishman to emigrate to. If he should be sent there in the course of his duty, he need not dread the climate more than if he were sent to the East or West Indies; and if he is engaged in trade he may be sure of making money as rapidly as in any place in the world, if he is a temperate, energetic man with his wits about him.

         The great trials on the West Coast are the want of society, the difficulty of locomotion, and the difficulty of obtaining medical assistance when ill, at trading stations. It is to be hoped the public will not think all Africans are like the Fantees, or form their opinion of the nature of the country from the descriptions, by Special Correspondents, of the present abnormal state of the Gold Coast.

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