The Summer Holiday

This summer, as with most summers, our family had a holiday on our sister isle, the lush green isle of Gozo. This year we had a newbie to the group, namely, my boyfriend Jurgen. As we set sail on a stifling hot August morning, the photographic journey began.

First Stop. The Cirkewwa Harbour. For once in our lifetime, we didn`t have to wait long to board the ferry. After just half-an hour in the scorching August sun we boarded the M.V. Pinu, one of the new ships of the ferry company, that was to take us to Gozo. On board we had "The Gozo Ferry Fare" that is Paprika Pringles for my daughter and a stinking coffee for the rest of us. My daughter insists on always having the same particular snack on board, even though she doesn`t even touch it with a yard-pole during other occasions. As regards to the coffee, the less said the better. It is one of those scalding hot,  tasteless junk that comes out of a vending machine.

Second Stop. The Jubilee Bar in Victoria. We always make it a point to visit this quaint little bar/bistro while in Victoria, I should make it a point to visit the Valletta one more often as well. The ambience is set as an "old time pub", complete with newspaper snippets from days gone by, old picture frames, and assorted antique bric-a-brac. The music played inside is an eclectic mixture of "the golden era", the early decades of the last century. This place has a good old fashioned cosy feel to it. But it not just that. They have a GREAT wine list and the food is even greater. Anyway, as soon as we set foot in Gozo, we set to tuck in to a toasted ftira biz-zejt and a pint. And that`s just breakfast!

Third Stop. The Victoria Market. Mother insists on visiting the flea-market at Victoria. I usually buy some pot-plant or other, while daughter tries on half a dozen of different hats and sunglasses, but then ends up not buying anything! I can still hear the stall holder fuming that we had raided half his stall for nothing... Dad buys his "qorq" from the flea market while Jurgen buys a state-of-the-art swim trunks for the princely sum of Lm2.50!

Next Stop. The Flat. To get to the rented accomodation, we had to undergo a strange routine. See, my mother doesn`t believe in straight lines, no. She went to book a flat for 3 adults and a child. She insisted that there be an extra bed in case someone pops in. But she didn`t want to book a flat for 2 couples and a child! So we had to get the flat, leave Jurgen waiting outside lest the landlady should see the fourth adult, and then, when the coast was clear call him over. Of course, as luck would have it, parking in the middle of the Santa Maria season is a nightmare. So, poor old Jurgen and Dad had to lug all the luggage behind them for a distance of over one hundred metres, while I was lumbered with my tired, hungry daughter ("Mammina, I want to eat NOW!!!!!") and Mum was carrying our "week`s" provisions. The said provisions turned out to be enough food to feed the entire U.S. Army in Afghanistan for a fortnight. Honest.

Fourth Stop. The Ramla Bay Beach. After settling down in our flat, it was time to hit the beach. So there you have it, 4 adults and an ecstatic child all clamouring to go to the beach. My daughter had forgotten all about her hunger and tiredness and was already changing into her swimsuit. Food? It can wait! So half an hour`s drive in the lazy hills of Xaghra and there is Ramla Bay. Upon our arrival, we set on the task of finding a suitable place to stay. This is no joke considering that the beach is chock full of people. So after trudging through a bay full of scalding sand ("Mammina! Tell Jurgen or Nannu to lift me up! NOW!!!!") armed with buckets, spades, dinghies, volleyballs, sunscreen and towels, we found a place on the furthest side of the beach. The wind was blowing and the sea was quite rough but that didn`t deter us. Nicole jumped into her dinghy and we set off to the rough open seas. It was such a laugh. Nicole had the time of her life bumping on her dinghy on the waves, while we were bobbing in and out of the waves like fish. After a good hour of such strenous exercise, the hunger got the better of us, so leaving our paraphernalia behind, we left for the opposite end of the beach for the only eaterie around. The Ramla Kiosk is where we got the nickname "il-mejda tal-lager?!"  because on a recent previous visit, we had a table covered with empty beer bottles, and emptier beer jugs! We ate our fill there, and washed it down with some ice-cold beer. I had a delicious Gozitan salad, complete with bigilla, anchovies, olives, capunata, "tadam imqadded" i.e. sundried tomatoes set on a bed of greens. The men had pizzas, Mum had a fishermen`s salad loaded chock full of shellfish and Nicole had her staple- Chicken Nuggets with salad instead of fries. She doesn`t really like fries, prefers to eat her greens (Whippie!!).  After all that food there is only thing left to do. Sleep.

Fifth Stop. The San Lawrenz Village Feast. In Malta, every Sunday during summer, some village somewhere is celebrating the patron saint`s feast. During this holiday there were two feasts being celebrated namely the Victoria Titular and Saint Lawrence`s. Saint Lawrence apparently was an early bishop who was roasted alive on a metal grill for his religious beliefs. (We roast ourselves alive on hot sunny beaches for our suntan! So it`s not so damn crazy after all...) Well, joking aside, each community takes its village feast seriously, competing against each other for such feats as the loudest petard bangs, the noisiest (note NOT musically gifted but noisy) band club, the brashest and loudest street decorations, and house decorations as well. All for a saint that has been dead for over a thousand years! Anyway, we visited the parish church, forgetting that entrance codes in Gozo are stricter than those in Malta, no bare knees or elbows male or female! When the time came for refreshments our choice was vastly limited as there was only the band club selling drinks and by the time our turn came it had run out! So we had no choice but to go over to Victoria and get something from there.

Sixth Stop. The Flat. After a hard day of running, swimming, eating and drinking, there is nothing like a relaxing pint sipped slowly in the flat balcony. The daughter stoned herself to sleep from tiredness (only to wake up with a  vengeance at 6:30 am sharp), it was then up to us adults to chat and laze a bit before calling it a day. Words come easily under those conditions and it wasn`t the first time that we found ourselves chatting till the early hours of the morning. Gozo isn`t the ideal venue for partying let`s face it, as the few clubs present are small, poky, crowded and close early. But it does make for a good relaxing holiday, and we can always make up an impromptu party, no? Otherwise, what is rented accomodation for??

Of course that is not all that the dear isle has to offer. We visited id-Dwejra, which translated means little house, referring to an old and sadly dilapidated building which in better times was painted red. The interesting bit in this place is The Inland Sea which consists of a little pond of sea water connected to the open sea by a narrow channel in the midst of huge cliffs. Further afield from this place there is The Azure Window which is a geological rock formation formed by thousands of years of erosion by the elements. Another curiosity is the" Gebla tal-General" also known as Fungus Rock, due to a indigenous fungus which was harvested, albeit illegally, for its purported medical powers. The Grand Master of the Order of St.John Hospitalliers which was ruling Malta during that time decreed that the rock shuld be smoothed out, and fortified with a watch tower, so that any knight needing medication from this plant could use it, but barring it to the locals. How`s that for fairness, eh?

During our week`s stay an agricultural show was organised in Villa Rundel Gardens. This show is organised  by the Ministry of Gozo with the aid of the Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries. It is usually well  organised and planned. But this year was a bit of a let down. The flyers advertising the show, mentioned that many different farm animals were to be present for the show, and me , on  wanting to show some farm animals to my daughter took her to see the show. But , alas, there were no mules, no cows, no sheep and not even the odd goat! There was a good selection of rabbit , chicken , pidgeon  and geese breeds. There was also an exhibition of dried herb seeds that are an intrinsic part of maltese cuisine like cumin, coriander, basil, mint, rosemary... Another queer thing, during our stay we didn`t manage to buy one single egg for breakfast from anywhere, every shopkeeper went on telling us that the maltese had bought and eaten all the eggs, but on visiting the show we saw baskets full of eggs. Eggs of all sizes, shapes, colours and textures. There was even some ostrich eggs, which Dad was tempted to turn into an omelette.  Among other exhibits there was an interesting crafts section, which displayed carvings in stone, lacework and filigree.

A must visit when one is in Gozo is the "fenkata". I know a place in Nadur where they have the wickedest thing on four paws... The place is clean and tidy, unlike some traditional fenkata venues where the ambience leaves much to be desired as regards hygiene.  And the food is heavenly. For starters there is the usual Spaghetti with Rabbit Sauce or the home-made vegetable soup. I usually take the veggie soup as it is tres delicieux. Whether it is Potato Soup, Courgette Soup, or Cauliflour they are all delicious, might as well kidnap the cook, no? This is then followed by pieces of rabbit fried in lard, wine and garlic accompanied by some of the freshest salad around, baked potatoes, and an interesting stir-fry of courgettes, bell peppers and aubergines, and of course as much fresh bread as your heart desires. Still feeling hungry after all this gluttony? There`s a variety of fresh fruits and nuts as well as confectionery and ice-creams. All of this is washed down with more than ample quantities of blood red house wine. How`s the wine? Sweet as nectar, potent as whisky. Two glasses and you`re done. In that is! We managed to down two full carafes between four adults, that`s half a litre each of very strong wine. I wonder how we ever made it to the flat ...

Another "must" on our agenda when visiting Gozo is a visit to The Stone Crab Restaurant in Xlendi. This little place is renowned for its Spaghetti al Frutta di Mare. This delicacy straight from heaven consists of a LARGE dish of shellfish mainly mussels, shrimps and clams interspersed with an enormous amount of spaghetti. Very filling, very satisfying, very messy as well. Another quirk about this place is that it is exactly at the water`s edge, by a little sandy beach populated by a friendly gang of ducks. My daughter enjoys going to this particular restaurant as she can first fill herself up to her heart`s content and then swim among the ducks with the other patron`s children. All this under mum`s watchful eye. At least, I can eat in peace and quite knowing full well that my daughter is playing, safe and sound.