JUNIOR SAILOR, the "square rig"

 

Officers / Senior Sailors "round rig"

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HISTORY

The JS really didn't have an official uniform until the mid 1800's. Up until then it was at the discretion of the ships Captain. He, in fact, provided the clothes / kit for his crew via his Purser (Supply Officer / Ship's Accountant / Stores). Therefore he could be lavish and use his own money or 'do it on the cheap', using issued ship's stores. Basically canvass for his sails, cordage of various sizes and tar (for waterproofing). This led to simple,'one size fits all' clothing for the working sailor referred to as "slops" (from the Germanic word oferslop meaning 'surplice') and would be kept in a slop chest for communal use.

The JS formal uniform is actually a practical, working, outfit that has been embellished, over recent modern times, into the ceremonial one we have today. So practical was this functional design, that most Navies of the world sport a basic variation of it. It was also the standard 'work dress' uniform (red badged) of the R.A.N. until the mid fifties

BELLS

a sailor's pants, so called due to the shape of the legs being overly generous and rounded in circumference. The round leg shape happens because the garment is pressed flat and inside out, along the seams. The seven folds/creases on the leg are simply there to ease the rolling up the garment for stowage in a kit bag and it's folded inside out in order to keep it clean until use. That the pant legs can easily be rolled up whilst wearing them was an accidental bonus.

Making a pair of bells was a simple matter of cutting two rectangular pieces of canvas (with a further matching, central cut ¾ of the way up the long vertical), then sewing up the seams. For ease of access, a square was then cut out at the top of whichever side you'd decided would be the front, to be buttoned back on. Interestingly, because sailors referred to most things in nautical terms, the bottom corners of this piece of cloth were called the 'flies' (as on a sail) and has led to the modern term of fly at the front of all trousers.

A length of rope was then used as a belt.

An archaic term for bells is 'ducks', which refers to a strong untwilled linen or cotton fabric, used chiefly for sails. From the Dutch word doek, meaning ‘linen'.

WHITE FRONT

a sailor's bleached white, square necked, short sleeved shirt. Fashioned, using the same method, as the bells. The square cut of the neck was for simplicity of cutting the material and a'one size fits all' collarless shape. The blue trim is for decoration only, although originally it was to reinforce the neck opening to prevent fraying.

BARATHEA

refers to the JS jumper; a sailors loose outer jacket. Barathea is actually a fine woollen cloth, sometimes mixed with silk or cotton, so the term probably refers to a sailor's best uniform (his "number 1's" with gold wire badges) as opposed to his everyday, working, uniform of a more rugged material (his "number 2's" with red cloth badges). The generous, open front, cut of this short jacket allowed for great freedom of movement whilst aloft in the rigging or strenuous work handling lines.

 THE BLUE COLLAR

had a very practical reason - haircuts, or the lack of them. Sailors let their hair grow long and would tie it back in order to keep it out of their eyes, especially when working aloft in the rigging. Because their hair could come loose in high winds (and at the most impractical times) they would, instead, use tar on the 'pony tail' to permanently hold it back. This practice would ruin the back of their jumper so they fashioned a detachable (cleanable or disposable) square collar to absorb the sticky tar.

The popular explanation for the three white stripes adorning our collar is in reference to Lord Nelson's three great victories of the Napoleonic wars (or it could just look nice that way). The three creases (2 mountains and a valley) are arranged so that the collar lies fairly flat when worn and folds up neatly for storing in your kit bag.

THE BLACK SILK

has both a practical and fanciful history. Practically, the silk was used like modern day 'ear defenders' to hold cotton wool over the ears during gun firing. The noise during one broadside firing, especially on an enclosed lower gun deck, could permanently deafen you. Seeing as you could go to action stations at a moment's notice, a prudent sailor always had his 'silk' with him. Silk itself wasn't originally used by your everyday sailor due to it's expense, but the practice was sound.

The fanciful history has its origin as a mourning band due to the death of Lord Nelson and it can be used today, by all ranks, for that very purpose.

THE LANYARD

is a very practical piece of safety equipment. A sailor would attach his knife (or any other hand tool) to it whilst working aloft so that if he dropped it, it wouldn't injure anyone below.

THE TAPES

are another example of safety, and are there to tie down the end of the lanyard and 'silk' to prevent them from flapping around or interfering with him when going aloft or coming back down. The 'dove tail' cut at the ends is decoration, something to tiddly it up.

JS CAP

is actually a peaked cap (officer/SS's hat) without the visor. Early photographs (late 1800's/early 1900's) show that the only difference between the two was this visor. Prior to this, the Ratings hat was a "sennit". A broad brimmed, straw hat that was either varnished or tarred for waterproofing. "Sennit" (the nautical variant spelling of sinnit) refers to the type of weave used to construct the hat and also to braided cordage in flat, round, or square form.

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OFFICER / SENIOR SAILOR (the "fore'n'aft" or "round" rig)

HISTORY

The Petty Officer only began wearing the fore'n'aft rig in the 1930's. Prior to that, they wore the 'square' rig for one year's probation.

Fashion 'of the times' dictated the style of early officer's uniform, with the double-breasted jacket being a gentleman's attire of the mid to late 1700's, when a standard uniform was selected. Commissioned officer rank was denoted by gilded epaulettes, whereas warrant officer rank was displayed as a row of gilded buttons worn at the cuff.

FRONT BUTTONS

the officer's and WO's jacket traditionally sports 8 buttons (2 rows of 4) for no other reason except that it looks 'smart'. The SS originally had 6 (2 rows of 3) and the reason for the SS having 2 less buttons was for distant recognition. Today, in the R.A.N., all fore'n'aft jackets have 8 buttons for reasons of cost savings.

OFFICER RANK LACE – THE EXECUTIVE CURL

also known as "Nelson's Eye", was originally worn only by officers in the line of command. It was for instant recognition (especially during battle and the resulting casualties) of who could command a ship. After all, an engineer or a doctor wasn't trained in that particular field. However it was adopted by all of the naval officers trades in order to distinguish them from Merchant Navy officers (who also wear nautical, double-breasted uniforms) and for aesthetic reasons (it looked nice).

Therefore another way of quickly identifying which Naval Officer did 'what' was to colour-in the space between the rings (or just below the 'subbies' single ring). The Command 'stream' was navy blue (which was the colour of the uniform anyway). The Purser (supply) wore white. Electrical wore green (which is why we call all technicians 'greenies') and Engineering wore purple. Today, Medical still wears red and, a modern addition is, orange for Dentistry.

SWORD BELTS and GAITERS

both accoutrements originate from using naval personnel as infantry troops or naval artillery on land. Officers, being Officers, would ride a horse and this is why the 'hanger' straps for the sword are so long, they are a standard cavalry length.

Gaiters, for Officers (particularly Guard Officers) are longer than a Rating's, and are derived from 'half chaps', also for riding a horse. There is no history behind the sword belt being worn under the jacket; it just doesn't crush the garment when worn in this fashion.

HISTORICAL NOTE

it's common knowledge that the Officer Of The Day at HMAS CERBERUS used to conduct his base rounds on horseback. It is unknown by me, when this practice ceased.

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