I'm not going to take you step by step through the whole assembly process. Just the highlights,
and some things I had problems with or did differently.

So here goes:
My first stumbling block came when I was dealing with the elevator. The elevator connecting rod is
to be installed so that the elevator halves are equal distance from the center, and move freely. This would
also mean that the middle of the rod should be in the middle of the stab. Doing that is no problem.
The problem was that the correct location to drill the hole for the rod is in the middle of a pre-cut
hinge opening. No biggy, I just enlarged the slit towards the outside on both the stab and elevator.

Masking tape on the areas to be marked with pen

In the middle...

Oops! Hinge is in the way...

As I am using GWS Park servos, which are slightly larger then the suggested micro servos, I needed to enlarge
the elevator servo opening somewhat. So I measured the size and with masking tape I marked the size-to-be.

As my servo would be outside the build-in servo frame inside the fuse, I had to make my own, on the outside.

And this is how the elevator servo will fit...

I located the opening for the elevator stab and removed the covering.

Following the instructions, I trial fitted and then glued in the elevator stab, and attached the elevator.
There was an addendum to the instructions, explaining the presence of two carbon fiber rods. These
are to strengthen the elevator stab. I've read that without them you might experience elevator flutter.
We don't want flutter...

For a more scale-like appearance I also bought a radial air intake. A lot of the plastic had to be
removed for it to fit inside the cowl. I also opened up some of the slats, to let cooling air in.

I'll start with these openings and see how it goes.

I also opened up the air intake at the borttom of the cowl.

Closer inspection showed that opening up the front air intake would be futile, as the air goes straight
out at the back of the cowl. So a balsa baffle was made to direct the air up into the fuse. You can also see
here the radial. I used epoxy mixed with some shredded fiberglass to glue in the radial. First I sanded both surfaces offcourse...

And a closer look at the baffle.

All these air intakes would be useless without a proper air exit. Air would flow into the fuse, and the
air pressure will blow off the canopy. So I CA'd some scrap balsa onto the stringers to create the frame for two openings.

I ironed the covering onto the frame, and then I cut away the covering.

And seen from the outside.

Another area of concern appears to be the landing gear. Both the aluminium legs, and the fuse construction
area where the landing gear atttaches to the fuse. Weighing many options, and consulting with a friend who is
far more knowledgeable about these things than me, I decided (for the present) to strengthen the front of the
stringers, as this is were most of the force will be on when landing. I kept it simple. Just some hard balsa
CA'd in place, and then some more thick CA in the cracks and corners, fixed with kicker.

Next step: the rudder servo.
Again, because I use the GWS Park servo I had to be a bit creative. I partly cut away the servo tray so the
lower part of my servo would fit.

I made a new servo tray out of light ply and hardwood.

My tray fits right on top of the original one.

The sides rest on the original servo trays' fuse side re-enforcements.

And the servo fits!
With 20/20 hind vision, I should have installed the servo with the wheel towards the front.
Attaching the pull/pull wiring is very simple, but if you have salami size fingers like me, you
need as much room as you can get to work with these fiddly little wires and tubes etc.

Some Velcro to help the 4 magnets keep the canopy in place.

In case the velcro prooves to be insufficient, I've already glued some balsa blocks in the top of
the turtle deck to screw in a servo arm that will serve as another canopy latch.

Attaching the motor was a no-brainer. The firewall has marks for the motor's radial mount, so I just
needed to screw it in. The supplied screws were too small, so I used some of my own. No bolts are needed
(or so the instructions say) as the firewall is a ply and fiberglass sandwich constrution, and simple wood
screws will hold the motor in place just fine... We'll see.
The ESC I fastened with zipties.

To fasten the cowl to the fuse I had to drill holes in the fiberglass cowl. Now, I know that after attaching,
detaching, and attaching again a few times these holes will tear. A nice mod I saw somewhere (possibly MAN magazine)
was using one of those rubber servo thingies to dampen servo vibrations from the motor. If they tear, I can just replace them.

And a view inside the cowl.

I found some hardwood blocks with all the bits 'n pieces that came with the model. Nothing is mentioned
in the instructions, but this is the only use for them I could think of. The skin is very thin in the area
where the cowl screws should go. The hardwood blocks give the screws something to "bite" into.

I realy don't like the idea of the Rx rattling about the fuse. So first there's going to be some
velcro for the Rx to sit on the tray. Due to the length of some of the servo leads I'll have to position
the Rx sideways, but the velcro will have a very little amount of wood to stick to. So a small balsa Rx tray
was made and the Rx will be velcro'ed onto this. Plus another velcro strap, to be added later...

To open up the covering for the wing/wiring/hold_down_bolt I did not use a knife as mentioned in the instructions.
I find it much easier to make holes in heatshrink with heat: a warm soldering iron. Just be sure not to leave
it plugged in too long. The iron should be on the hot side of warm. Too much heat can ruin the rest of the
covering. After learning this the hard way on my Filip600Sport I have it down to a fine art.

Someone complained that the wings' hold down screws were too short and he had to replace them with new
longer ones. Well, someone at Hyperion took notice. Now they're too long! At this length I spend 5 minutes
just fastening one wing, and another 5 at the end of the day unfastening!

To shorten them, I first found a nut the right size and positioned it on the inside of where I wanted to cut the bolt.

Then I cut the bolt, and turned the nut of the bolt, thereby repairing any imperfections caused by the sawing of the bolt.

My hope (and aim) was to balance my Sukhoi without adding weight. She balanced right where the factory
said she should, with the battery all the way to the front, allmost against the firewall.

And now some adding up:

The flight battery weighs 189 grams

The fuse 746 grams (189+746)

Left wing 111 grams (189+746+111)

Right wing 111 grams (hey, they're the same. Coincidence?) (189+746+111+111)

Wingrod weighs 17 grams (189+746+111+111+17)
All together, that makes an AUW of 1,174 grams! Quick, what did the weight on the label say?

Static testing showed just under 30A and just under 330 Watts. She'll fly...

Some pictures of our salon... (I don't know why it looks purple. It's dark blue, realy!)

And some post maiden pictures:
This was very soon after the maiden, I'm still not sure why I don't have a pile of balsa scrap at my feet.

Post post maiden. I can relax. She flies! Not just flies, but flies realy, realy nice. I am not a
3D hotshot by a long mile, so the first flights were very sedate. Only the second flight did I try a
loop and a roll. She goes around at a nice clip with only 1/2 throttle, and does nice slow low fly bys
at even less. The aluminium landing gear is very weak (I knew that in advance). The slowest,
most carefull landing on gravel still bend the legs towards the rear. It must be replaced with a carbon
fiber one. All together a very nice flying experience for, relatively, not a lot of money!

I hope to be able to post some decent in-flight pics soon...