Field Study Report: Okinawa 010304 (Part 1)
		Throughout December 2003 and into the early part of January 2004, I visited the main island of the Ryuhkyuh Archipelago in order to participate in new year ceremonies. This is the home of my partner, Azusa, and it has been one of the bases of my ethnographic research since the mid 1990s.			Like many of her neighbors in Yushigwah, Azusa's grandma practices farming at home. Here she is peeling off potato skins. She starts as early as 5:00am in the morning, but spends most of afternoon relaxing at home. It's a way of keeping herself healthy, you know! Okinawa is a record-holder in the number of healthy elders, and this near 80 year-old grandma is no exception. Long live grandma!!
		My home base stands by the sea in one of the villages near Nago City in the northern part of Okinawa's main island. This is a typical view from my hideout in the field. ...Beautiful, isn't it?! It truly heals the mind of those who may visit such a place from big, noisy, mind-eroding cities.
					Mango, papaya, guava, red hot chilies, yams, and local onions called "shimarakkyoh" are some examples of fruits and vegetables that grandma produce in her garden. This is a shot of her guava branch.
		At the center of this village - suppose I call it "Yushigwah" using a pseudonym - is a community square that revolves around a handsome gajumaru tree. This is a symbolic center for every member of the village - including Azusa who grew up climbing it and playing in its branches as a child. "Its a sacred tree for all of us in this village," she says.
					You can swim in the sea most of the time throughout the year in Okinawa (well, I'm sure such a comment will be criticized on the basis that winter - especially between January and March - can be too cold for anyone to jump into the water!), but one can easily distinguish Nippie and Yankee visitors from the locals because the locals seldom swimming in the sea for leisure-like purposes. In any case, one has to watch out for many poisonous sea creatures once s/he is in the water, but this local jelly fish called "habukurage" is exceptional both in their level of poison and their availability during the autumn-winter period. In many of the beaches in the area, one can find signs like this one that warns people from entering the water. Once stung, one ought to never try to wipe the area in question, but apply lightened vinegar.
		A sacred lion - "shiisaa" - stands on the roof-top of a neighboring household. A typical view in this area but this one stands out in its aesthetic appeal. Shiisaa can come alone or in a yin-yang pair (one can tell which is which by the shape of their mouths - whether they are opened or closed). Whichever is the case, shiisaa function meaningfully as spiritual guardians - gate-keeping watchdogs that prevent evil forces from entering households.
					Whenever Azusa and I return to Okinawa, one of our favorite things to do is to participate in an event called "moai," an institutionalized get-together between good-ole buddies. Seen in this shot are Azusa's high-school buddies. This particular group of moai consists of female members, but their male partners are frequently brought in as guests. Not long after I established my partnership with Azusa, such a moai became a place where my personality was evaluated. Only when these female judges accepted me could I become a socially-recognized partner of Azusa among the entire community of her friends! I remember feeling the power of Okinawan women and their networks.

Back to My Syllabi Page