Aconcagua Bibliography, Compiled by
Rik Anderson
The OSAT CASE '97: Aconcagua expedition utilized many resources on the Internet concerning the mountain, but we also turned to printed resources in preparing for our climb. The following bibliography lists the books and articles consulted before we traveled to South America. We are grateful to the American Alpine Club library, which provided research and sent me copies of several of the articles which I could not locate. There are other resources as well, for example I eschewed several articles found by the AAC library which were descriptions of earlier Normal Route climbs, as I had plenty of more recent information on the Horcones side of the mountain from the Internet resources.
BOOKS
Bass, Dick, Wells, Frank, and Ridgeway, Rick, Seven Summits
Descriptions of two climbs. In addition the the authors, the famed
RMI guides Marty Hoey and Geo Dunn were on the first climb, with
partial success on the Polish Glacier with a night descent. The
second included Rick Marts and Yves Chouinard on a climb that
aborted on the Polish, but successfully traversed to Ruta Normal
for the first Bass/Wells joint summit. Book is widely available
in libraries and bookstores.
Brandt, Hilary, et al., Backpacking in Chile & Argentina
In spite of the pedestrian sounding title, this is an
excellent resource for climbers heading to these countries. Numerous
maps, travel tips, and local resources are identified. Six page
chapter on Aconcagua is not particularly charitable concerning
Sr. Grajales' business practices, although we found him to be
helpful and his prices are in line with other quotes we received.
Conway, Sir William Martin, Aconcagua and Tierra del Fuego
Published in 1902, describing Conway's 1898-99 South American
expedition in which he made the second successful ascent, two
years after the FitzGerald/Zurbriggen climb. Whereas FitzGerald
came from Mendoza, Conway came from Chile. The climb is described
in very entertaining style. Whereas FitzGerald is somewhat sterile
documentary, Conway spins tales and turns phrases, an interesting
contrast. Seattle Public Library has a copy available for circulation.
FitzGerald, Edward A., The Highest Andes
"A record of the first ascent of Aconcagua and Tupungato..."
A fascinating description of the 1896-97 climb published in 1899,
this book gives a great sense of what the country is like, and
what expedition mountaineering was like a hundred years ago. Multiple
attempts at the ascent over a three month period, fighting weather,
injuries, altitude sickness, and primitive conditions, yielded
two successful summits, first by Zurbriggen and subsequently by
Vines and Lanti; expedition leader FitzGerald never being able
to overcome the altitude in spite of repeated attempts. A story
worth reading, I recommend it! Includes both photos and two maps.
Seattle Public Library has a copy available for circulation.
Kelsey, Michael R., Climbers' and Hikers' Guide to the World's
Mountains
Describes climbing the Normal Route in five days, "no
problems"! (He had spent two weeks on Ojos del Salado acclimating!)
Mason, Gene, Minus 3
Seattlite Mason describes a 1965 climb up a new (but not
too difficult technically) West face route (Ruta Norma approach
and finish) with bad weather for a December-January climb. Available
in libraries.
Morrow, Patrick, Beyond Everest
I once heard Morrow describe himself as "first non-millionaire
to do the seven summits". He did the Polish glacier route
in late January/early February 1981 together with a Mountain Travel-guided
trip on the same schedule. Outstanding photography of all seven
continental summits. Available in libraries.
Randis, Alejandro and Lavoisier, Maria Marta, Aconcagua:
El Centina de Piedra
In Spanish, the American Alpine Club has a copy available
for circulation.
Secor, R.J., Aconcagua: A Climbing Guide
The new (1994) Mountaineers-published guide.$15.95 for 138 pages,
but indispensable for anyone planning a trip. Check out our web page critique for
some updates to some of the information therein.
Taplin, Thomas, Aconcagua--The Stone Sentinel; Perspectives of an Expedition
A description of a guided trip gone somewhat awry! Entertaining
reading for multiple perspectives on the same climb, interesting
style. This book is still available in stores.
Ullman, James Ramsey, The Age of Mountaineering
This classic, by the foremost American mountaineering author of
the 1950s, includes several pages on the early climbing history
including the Zurbriggen 1897 first ascent, and the quote, cited
in part by Secor: "The reports of the various parties who
have balled their way to its summit are unanimous in declaring
that, from the point of view of climbing, it is one of the most
unattractive mountains imaginable. In the alpine sense there are
few, if any difficulties. There is little call for climbing skill
or generalship. Yet its altitude is so great, its cold so bitter,
its storms so frequent and savage, that the ascent ranks among
the most grueling ordeals known to climbers. "An intolerably
monotonous slag-pile"; "the dump-heap of South America"
- these are merely two of the more printable epithets hurled at
it by its battered and exhausted challengers." This book
is widely available in libraries.
Zurbriggen, Mattias, From the Alps to the Andes
Autobiography of the famous guide who was the first up
Aconcagua. I've been unable to locate a copy.
American Alpine Journal
v.29 n.61 (1987) Capellas, Carles and Paytubi, Josep,
"Aconcagua"
A "new" map of Aconcagua, full size copies of which
are available from the American Alpine Club library.
A ridge-line type of topographic map with lots of detail of the
Aconcagua region, but does not include the Vacas valley nor the
Horcones approach south of Confluenza--I think the old (ca. 1950s)
Argentina government elevation-type topographic maps are more
helpful, although this map would be a helpful companion document
for anyone exploring other peaks in the Aconcagua region.
Americas, January-February 1988, "Getting
High on Aconcagua"
A Ruta Normal climb description. Not particularly interesting
nor well written.
Climbing Magazine,
October 1986, Hessburg, "Aconcagua: Price of the Argentine
Andes"
A comprehensive guide, I suspect this was the best resource
for climbers prior the Secor's book, although it is somewhat out
of date now.
Climbing Magazine,
February '97, Gunlogson, Mark, "The Not So Gentle Giant:
Aconcagua"
A sound-byte type guide--at least its up to date.
Esquire, June, 1987, "Pushing the Mid-life
Envelope"
Recounts a Ruta Normal climb. Fairly long and detailed description,
including the experience of getting lost on the descent from the
summit! Gives a good sense of the risks involved in climbing above
20,000 ft. (Story abridged in a subsequent Readers' Digest)
Sierra,
Sep-Oct 1982, v647, n5, Cummings, Peter, "Aconcagua: guiding
on the Polish Route"
Dated information on arrangements, but an interesting story
of a guided climb.
Summit, Mar-Apr 1983, Leeth, Dan, "Aconcagua:
The Polish Route"
A terrific collection of photos of the route.
Summit, Nov-Dec, 1988, v.34, n.6, Echevarria,
Evelio, "Aconcagua National Park"
A misleading title (its a provincial park, not a national
park), sloppy editing (almost an entire page of text is repeated!),
and dated information; included here to be complete.
Useage monitor since 12/12/97