Denmark

Introduction

With little to get angry about in Scandinavia's cosiest community, post-Viking Danes have had to file down their horns and make their mark in more civilised fashion. The Danes have responded by inventing Lego toys, being the European Union's cagiest member, and producing some talented upstart soccer players. Brand recognition persists due to the Danes baking pastries so delicious that the addiction of the entire gap-toothed world is assured.

Denmark's capital, the toe-tapping toy-town of Copenhagen, is an urban mosh pit of the most fragrant persuasion. Its flannels are always laundered, its grunge never more lank than just the other side of swank, and its Jensens, Hansens and Nielsens are a cacophany of excuse-me's as they elbow their way to the bouncer-line. And given all the fun that there is to be had in this festival-happy scattering of islands, Denmark's status as the least bank-breaking country in Scandinavia deserves glad-handed shake me happy thank you letters from travellers all the way from the bottom of the beer glass.

Facts for the Traveler

When to Go

Considering its northern latitude, Denmark has a fairly mild climate all year round. Still, the winter months - cold and with short daylight hours - are certainly the least hospitable. Correspondingly, many tourist destinations come alive in late April, when the weather begins to warm up and the daylight hours start to increase, and by October they again become sleepers.

May and June can be delightful months to visit: the earth is a rich green accented with fields of flowers, the weather is comfortable and you'll beat the rush of tourists. While autumn can be pleasant, it's not nearly as scenic because the rural landscape has largely turned to brown.

High tourist season is July and August. There are open-air concerts, lots of street activity and basking on the beach. Other bonuses for travellers during midsummer are longer hours at museums and other sightseeing attractions. The last half of August can be a particularly attractive time to travel, as it still has summer weather but far fewer crowds.

Events

Denmark's main events are the hundred-plus music festivals which run almost nonstop, covering a broad spectrum of music that includes jazz, rock, blues, gospel, Irish, classical, country and Cajun. Beginning with Midsummer Eve bonfires in late June, some of the most popular festivals are the Roskilde Festival, northern Europe's largest rock music festival, held in late June or early July; the Midtfyns Festival in Ringe, held in early July, which features international rock, pop, world, folk and jazz musicians; the Copenhagen Jazz Festival, held for 10 days in early July, which is one of the world's major jazz festivals; the Copenhagen Summer Festival which features chamber and classical music concerts during the last week of July and the first two weeks of August; and the Tønder Festival, one of northern Europe's largest folk festivals, which is held at the end of August.

The nine-day Århus Festival, beginning on the first Saturday in September, turns that city into a stage for nonstop revelry, with music and drama performances of all sorts drawing hundreds of thousands of Danish and international visitors. The program also incorporates a Viking Festival complete with roving jesters, jousting and archery competitions, Viking-style ships, and traditional food, drink and merrymaking.

Money & Costs

Relative Costs:
Meals
Budget: US$6-10 Mid-range: US$10-20 Top-end: US$20+

Lodging
Budget: US$10-25 Mid-range: US$25-80 Top-end: US$80+

By anything other than Scandinavian standards, Denmark is certainly an expensive country. Part of the credit lies with the 25% tax which is included in every price from hotel rooms to shop purchases. Still your costs will depend on how you travel and it's possible to see Denmark without spending a fortune.

If you take advantage of Denmark's extensive network of camping grounds or stay in hostels and prepare your own meals, you might get by on US$30 a day. If you stay in modest hotels and eat at inexpensive restaurants, you can expect to spend about US$65-75 a day. Some of the cheapest places to eat are those that specialise in Mediterranean buffets, pizza or Greek food. Car rental is expensive in Denmark; if you want wheels, it might be worth hiring a car in Germany for about one third of the price, and taking it across the border.

All common travellers' cheques are accepted at major banks in Denmark, but bank fees for changing money are hefty so it's best to change a fair swag at a time. Post offices will change foreign cash and they are open on Saturday mornings which can be handy. Most major banks have ATMs which give cash advances on credit cards. There are also 24-hour cash exchange machines in Copenhagen.

Restaurant bills and taxi fares include service charges in the quoted prices. Further tipping is unnecessary, although rounding up the bill is not uncommon when the service has been good. Bargaining is not a common practice in Denmark.

Attractions

With a population of nearly 1.8 million, Copenhagen is Scandinavia's largest and liveliest city. It's an appealing and largely low-rise city comprised of block after block of period six-storey buildings. Church steeples punctuate the skyline, with only a couple of modern hotels shooting up to mar the view. The city's foremost historical and cultural sites remain concentrated in a relatively small area, while parks, gardens, water fountains and squares are scattered all over the city. A cosmopolitan city, Copenhagen abounds with sightseeing and entertainment possibilities. For music lovers and other revellers there's an active night scene, which rolls into the early hours of the morning.

The central railway station is flanked on the west by the main hotel zone and on the east by Tivoli amusement park. Opposite the northern corner of Tivoli is Rådhuspladsen, the city's central square and main bus transit point. Buses connect the airport, 9km south of the centre, with Central Station and Rådhuspladsen. Strøget, the world's longest pedestrian mall runs through the city centre between Rådhuspladsen and Kongens Nytorv, the square at the head of the colourful Nyhavn canal area.

Just north of the canal at Amalienborg Palace - home of the royal family since 1794 - you can watch the colourful changing of the guard when the queen is in residence. The palace's four nearly identical rococo mansions surround a central cobbled square and an immense statue of King Frederik V on horseback. One wing has been opened as a museum, exhibiting the royal apartments through three generations from 1863 to 1947. Classic churches to check out are Vor Frue Kirke, the city cathedral with its famed statues of Christ and the disciples by Bertel Thorvaldsen, and Christianshavn's Vor Frelsers Kirke, which has an elaborate Baroque altar and an equally elaborate carved pipe organ. For a magnificent city view, make the dizzying 400-step ascent up the church's 95-metre spiral tower - the last 160 steps run along the outside rim of the tower, narrowing to the point where they literally disappear at the top.

Copenhagen's museums include Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, which has an excellent collection of art and sculpture from the Greek, Egyptian, Etruscan and Roman periods. The Nationalmuseet (National Museum) houses an extensive collection of Danish historical artefacts, ranging from the Upper Palaeolithic period to the 1840s. However, if you like your sightseeing a little lighter, then Tivoli, a century-old amusement park is located in the city centre. This tantalising entertainment park, which dates from 1843, is delightfully varied, if horrendously expensive. Visitors can ride the roller coaster, take aim at the shooting gallery, enjoy pantomimes and concerts or simply sit and watch the crowds wander by. Of course, a visit to Copenhagen is not complete without a taking a stroll or ferry ride to see the city's most famous icon, the Little Mermaid statue, which sits on the waterfront 10 minutes north of the city centre.

Most of the budget hotels are located along the western side of Central Station. Nyhavn, long a haunt for sailors and writers (including Hans Christian Andersen), is now more gentrified than seedy, with a line of trendy pavement cafes and restored gabled townhouses. Nyhavn is an invitingly atmospheric place to break for lunch or an afternoon beer. Nearby, Strøget has an abundance of cheap eateries, but we're talking burgers and dogs for the most part. North of Strøget, there are some good restaurants in the Latin Quarter. If you want to kick on, see street performers and hear live music, then cruise along Strøget. North of the city centre the Nørrebro neighbourhood has a number of clubs that attract a college-age crowd and have good bands. There are also some good'n'smoky jazz joints in Christianshavn.

The commercial and cultural centre of Jutland, Århus is a lively university city with one of Denmark's best music and entertainment scenes - everything from symphony performances and theatre to a thriving night-owl café life. The city's finest attraction is Den Gamle By (Old Town), an open-air museum with 75 restored buildings brought here from around Denmark and reconstructed as a provincial town. Most of the buildings are half-timbered 17th and 18th century houses, but there's also a watermill, a windmill and a few buildings from the late 19th century.

The Århus Domkirke is Denmark's largest church, with its original Romanesque chapel dating back to the 12th century. Most of the remainder of the church is 15th-century Gothic. Vor Frue Kirke has Denmark's oldest chapel, dating from around 1060; the Moesgård museum has notable Bronze and Iron Age collections, as well as an enjoyable walking trail, which passes through a landscape of reconstructed prehistoric sights. The most startling exhibit at the museum is the 2000-year-old Grauballe man, found preserved in a nearby bog in 1952. Århus is on the Jutland peninsula's eastern shore and is well serviced by plane, bus and train.

Ribe is the oldest town in Scandinavia; recent excavations have unearthed a number of silver coins, indicating that a market town once existed on the site as far back as AD 700. Incessant wars with Sweden strangled regional commerce, resulting in Ribe's decline as an important medieval trading centre. Its economic decline has, nevertheless, spared it from modernisation. With its crooked, cobbled streets and half-timbered 16th-century houses, visiting Ribe is like stepping into a living history museum.

The town's dominant landmark, Ribe Cathedral, stands as a fine testament to Ribe's prominent past. For a lofty view of the countryside, climb 27m up the cathedral's 14th-century tower. Ribes Vikinger is a huge museum with displays of Ribe's Viking and medieval history. One exhibition hall has a reproduction of an AD 800 marketplace, complete with a cargo-laden Viking ship; and there's also a multimedia room where you can explore the Viking era via computers, light and sound. Just south of the town centre is the Vikingecenter, which has attempted to re-create Viking-era Ribe through various reconstructions, including a 34-metre Fyrkat-style longhouse. Ribe is in southern Jutland, accessible by trains from Esbjerg (35 minutes) and Tønder (50 minutes).

The spectacular white chalk cliffs rise 128m above sea level, presenting one of the most striking landscapes in Denmark. Created 5000 years ago, the cliffs were formed when calcareous deposits were uplifted from the ocean floor. You can walk down the cliffs to the beach and directly back up again in about 30 minutes, or walk along the shoreline in either direction and then loop back up through a thick forest of wind-gnarled beech trees for a hardier walk of about one and a half hours.

Møns Klint is located on the island of Møn, south of Zealand, to which it is connected by bridge and serviced daily by bus.

Egeskov Castle, complete with moat and drawbridge, is a Renaissance gem. Built in 1554, in the middle of a small lake, Egeskov - literally 'oak forest' - rests on a foundation of thousands of upright oak trunks. The expansive 15-hectare park surrounding the castle was designed in the mid-1700s and includes century-old privet hedges, free-roaming peacocks, a topiary and manicured English gardens. The interior has antique furnishings, grand period paintings and an abundance of hunting trophies. For those who enjoy labyrinths, take a stroll through the 200-year-old maze made of three-metre-high bamboo shoots. Also on the grounds is an antique car museum, which displays about 300 period cars. Located south of Odense on the island of Funen, Egeskov Castle is accessible by train and bus.

Legoland, a kilometre north of the small Jutland town of Billund, is a 10-hectare theme park built from plastic Lego blocks, and is not recommended to anyone who fears having their childhood writ both large and Lilliputian in 42 million pieces. Despite being Denmark's most visited attraction outside of Copenhagen, Legoland is Bleckobland unless you've got a preteen entourage or have always wanted to resolve the structural problems of building the Statue of Liberty out of plastic. The most elaborate reconstruction here is the three-million-block Port of Copenhagen exhibit, which features electronically controlled ships, trains and cranes.

Legoland's popularity is partially responsible for turning Billund into Denmark's second-busiest airport. You can also get here by bus from Billund or Vejle, to which there are frequent train services.

Off the Beaten Track

Christiansø is a beautifully preserved 17th-century island fortress, an hour's sail north-east of Bornholm. The entire island is an unspoiled reserve - there are no cars or modern buildings and no cats or dogs. Part of a cluster of small granite islands known collectively as Ertholmene, Christiansø (population 100), is connected to its smaller sister island, Frederiksø, by a footbridge. Græsholm, north-west of Christiansø, is a wildlife refuge and an important breeding ground for razorbill, guillemot and other seabirds. Christiansø's Store Tårn (Great Tower), built in 1684, is an impressive structure with a 25 metre diameter. The tower's century-old lighthouse offers a splendid 360 degree view of the island.

The Lille Tårn (Little Tower) on Frederiksø dates from 1685, and is the site of the local-history museum. The ground floor displays fishing supplies, hand tools and iron works, while upstairs there are cannons, period furnishings, models and a local flora and fauna exhibit. Breezy days are perfect for walking along the fortified stone walls and cannon-lined batteries that surround the perimeter of the island. There are skerries with nesting seabirds and a secluded swimming cove on Christiansø's eastern side. Boats sail to Christiansø from Bornholm from May to late September, while the mailboat makes the trip year-round.

Well off the beaten track, Ærø is an idyllic island with small villages, rolling hills and patchwork farms. It's a great place to explore by bicycle as the country roads are dotted with thatched houses, old windmills and ancient passage graves and dolmens. Ærøskøbing - a prosperous merchant town in the late 1600s - has been preserved in its entirety. Its narrow, cobbled streets are lined with close-standing 17th and 18th century houses, many of them gently listing half-timbered affairs with handblown glass windows, decorative doorways and street-side hollyhocks. In keeping with the town's character, sights are low-key. The main attraction is Flaskeskibssamlingen, a museum dedicated to the lifetime work of Peter Jacobsen, a local sailor nicknamed Bottle Peter, who created 1700 ships-in-a-bottle, many of which are in handblown bottles.

There are daily car ferries from Faaborg on Funen to Søby at the western end of Ærø. A less frequent ferry to Søby departs from Monmark in Jutland. Ærøskøbing in central Ærø is serviced by ferries from Svendborg. Ferries also run to Marstal in eastern Ærø from Rudkøbing.

A fishing port for centuries, Skagen's luminous heath-and-dune landscape was discovered in the mid-1800s by artists, and in more recent times by summering urbanites. The peninsula is lined with fine beaches, including a sandy stretch just a 15-minute walk from the town centre. The Skagens Museum displays the paintings of PS Krøyer, Michael & Anna Ancher and other artists who flocked to Skagen between 1830 and 1930 to 'paint the light'. Denmark's northernmost point is the long curving sweep of sand at Grenen, 3km north-east of Skagen. The path to the beach crosses rose-covered dunes, its highest point passing the grave of the poet Holger Drachmann (1846-1908).

Den Tilsandede Kirke, 'The Buried Church', is a whitewashed medieval church tower, still protuding above the sand dunes that buried the surrounding village and farms in the late 1700s. The church itself, once the largest in the country, was closed in 1795 because sand drifts kept blocking the doorway. It was finally torn down in 1810, although the tower was spared to allow it to function as a navigational landmark. Skagen is situated on Jutland's northern tip and is accessible by train or bus.

Activities

Denmark prides itself on being a bicycle-friendly country. The country is crisscrossed with thousands of kilometers of established cycling routes, including 10 long-distance ones. The shortest of the stamina-testers runs for 100km around the perimeter of Bornholm, while the longest runs along the west coast of Jutland some 500km from the German border to Skagen. The most popular cycling tour in the Copenhagen area is the 12-kilometre ride north to Dyrehaven, much of it skirting the Øresund coast, but also darting down pleasant woodland trails.

All around the country, from the southern shores of Bornholm to the northernmost tip of Jutland, there are numerous swimming opportunities along sandy strands. Denmark also has some excellent spots for windsurfing (called 'surfing' in Danish), varying from the open sea, favoured by pros, to inland fjords and sheltered coastal inlets where calm waters are ideal for beginners. With over 7300km of coastline and hundreds of islands, Denmark offers excellent yachting possibilities. There are lots of calm-water fjords and protected seas, such as Smålandshavet (the area nestled between Zealand and Lolland), as well as the island-dotted waters south of Funen. Denmark abounds in streams and lakes, many of which are stocked with pike, perch and trout. The saltwater fishing possibilities are nearly endless; the most common saltwater fish are cod, mackerel, plaice and sea trout.

History

Nomadic hunters followed the lichen and moss-eating reindeer into post-glacial Denmark. The reindeer heard 'go north' voices, but Stone Age Danes stayed put, sowing seeds in the ash of slash-and-burn fields, fencing in stock animals and burying their dead vertically. Skill and artistry flowered in the Bronze Age from 1800 BC, trade routes paddled all the way south and the most beautiful made-by-Danes products were buried in bogs for sacrificial safe-keeping. Iron clanged in from 500 BC and was domestically available, leading to the development of large agricultural communities. Present-day Denmark can trace its linguistic and cultural roots back to when the region was settled by the Danes, a tribe that is thought to have migrated south from Sweden around 500 AD.

In the late 9th century, warriors led by the Norwegian Viking chieftain Hardegon conquered the Jutland peninsula. The Danish monarchy, which claims to be the world's oldest, dates back to Hardegon's son, Gorm the Old, (Danish mums had a few problems naming their children), who established his reign early in the 10th century. Gorm's son, Harald Bluetooth, completed the conquest of the Danes, speeding their conversion to Christianity. Bluetooth's gob-stopping successors, Forkbeard and sons got the wood on England, setting up shop and throne and living the sweet life of Anglo-Dane monarchs. They kept it together for half a century or so, but as Viking power waned, the borders of the Danish kingdom shrank back to Denmark.

Blackadderish strife, plots, counter plots and assassinations marked the medieval period. By the late 14th century, upstart dynasties intermarried, eventually forming the Kalmar Union under fair Queen Magrethe; Denmark, Norway and Sweden, now all bunked in together, started to exasperate each other. Sweden was particularly peeved by profligate Danish spending on wars, and the union dissolved in 1523 when Sweden elected Gustav Vasa as its king. Norway, however, was to remain under Danish rule for another three centuries.

In the 16th century the Reformation swept through the country, leaving burnt churches and civil warfare in its wake. The fighting ended in 1536 with the ousting of the powerful Catholic church and the establishment of a Danish Lutheran church headed by the monarchy. King Christian IV ruled for the first half of the 17th century, undermining fabulous trade and wealth creation by leading his subjects into the disastrous Thirty Years War with Sweden. Denmark lost land and money and the king an eye. Even more disastrous were the losses to Sweden incurred some decades later by Christian's successor, King Frederick III. Denmark emerged slowly from these wars, focusing on civil development and reform.

During the Napoleonic Wars Britain attacked Copenhagen twice, inflicting heavy damage on the Danish fleet in 1801 and leaving much of Copenhagen ablaze in 1807. The Swedes then took advantage of a weakened Denmark, successfully demanding that Denmark cede Norway to them. The 19th century might have started off lean, dismal and dominated by a small Frenchman with a big ego, but by the 1830s Denmark had awakened to a cultural revolution in the arts, philosophy and literature. A democratic movement in Denmark led to the adoption of a constitution on 5 June 1849, which in turn led to the formation of a Danish constitutional monarchy. Germany took control of Schleswig in southern Jutland, after its inhabitants, people of both Danish and German heritage, revolted against the new constitution.

Neutral in WWI, Denmark reaffirmed its neutrality at the outbreak of WWII; but, on 9 April 1940, with German warplanes flying over Copenhagen, Denmark surrendered to Germany. The Danes were able to cling to a degree of autonomy, but after three years the Germans ended the pretence and took outright control. Although the island of Bornholm was heavily bombarded by Soviet forces, the rest of Denmark emerged from WWII relatively unscathed. Under the leadership of the Social Democrats a comprehensive social welfare state was established. Denmark is still providing its citizens with extensive cradle-to-grave security. An election in November 2001 brought a centre-right, conservative coalition to power with a campaign that focussed on immigration. Fears generated in the wake of the September 11 terrorist attacks on the USA were an important factor.

Although Denmark voted to join the European Community (now the European Union) in 1973, the Danes have been hesitant to support expansion of the European Union (EU). Indeed, when the Maastricht Treaty, which established the terms of a European economic and political union, came up for ratification in Denmark in June 1992, Danish voters rejected it by a margin of 51% to 49%. After being granted exemptions from the Maastricht Treaty's common defence and single currency provisions, the Danes, by a narrow majority, voted to accept the treaty in a second referendum held in May 1993. In September 2000 the Danes signalled a deeper discontent with European intigration when they rejected adoption of the euro, despite strong support for the pan-European currency by the government and business leaders.

When Norway broke its political ties with Denmark in the early 19th century, the former Norwegian colonies of Iceland, Greenland and the Faroe Islands stayed under Danish administration. Iceland, under Danish rule since 1380, declared itself an independent state in 1918, although foreign policy was still controlled from Copenhagen. Iceland became completely independent in 1944. The Kingdom of Denmark still includes Greenland and the Faroe Islands, but both are essentially self-governing. The Faroe Islands has had home rule since 1948, Greenland since 1979. In part because Denmark retains responsibility for their banking, defence and foreign relations, Greenland and the Faroe Islands each have two parliamentary representatives in the Danish Folketing. Unlike Denmark, however, neither Greenland nor the Faroe Islands is part of the EU.

Culture

The Danish language belongs to the northern branch of the Germanic language group, and bears a strong resemblance to other Scandinavian tongues. Famed Danish writers include Hans Christian Andersen, whose fairy tales have been translated into more languages than any other book except the Bible; the theologian and philosopher Søren Kierkegaard, a forerunner of modern existentialism; and Karen Blixen, who penned Out of Africa and Babette's Feast. Peter Høeg, of Miss Smilla's Feeling for Snow fame, is Denmark's most prominent contemporary author.

Internationally, the best known Danish film director is Carl Dreyer (1889-1968). Dreyer directed numerous films, including the 1928 masterpiece La Passion de Jeanne d'Arc, which was acclaimed for its rich visual textures and innovative use of close-up. Of late, Danish cinema has attracted attention with the wonderful Babette's Feast, and with the adaptation of Danish author, Martin Andersen Nexø's book Pelle the Conqueror, by director Bille August. The leading director of the new millenium is Lars von Trier, whose films Breaking the Waves and Dancer in the Dark have received awards at the Cannes Film Festival; the latter won the Palme d'Or in 2000.

Carl Nielsen, Demark's greatest composer, wrote over 100 works, ranging from string quartets to opera; he is the author of the utterly charming choral work Springtime in Funen (Funen was Nielsen's birthplace); a clarinet concerto, arguably the finest of the 20th century; and six symphonies, of which the fourth, The Inextinguishable, and the fifth, with its almost neurotic drumming, being the best known. The Royal Danish Ballet, which performs in Copenhagen's Royal Theatre from autumn to spring, is regarded as northern Europe's finest. Denmark is also a leader in industrial design, with a style marked by cool, clean lines applied to everything from architecture to furniture and silverwork.

Danes pride themselves on being thoroughly modern, so the wearing of folk costumes, the celebration of traditional festivals and the clinging to old-fashioned customs is less prevalent in Denmark than in most other European countries. Visitors will find Danes to be relaxed, casual, not given to extremes and tolerant of different life styles. Indeed, in 1989 Denmark became the first European country to legalise same-sex marriages and offer gay partnerships the same rights as heterosexual couples. Perhaps nothing captures the Danish perspective on life more than the concept of hygge which, roughly translated, means cosy and snug. It implies shutting out the turmoil and troubles of the outside world and striving instead for a warm intimate mood. Hygge affects how Danes approach many aspects of their personal lives, from designing their homes to their fondness for small cafés and pubs. Danes can give their host no greater compliment than to thank them for a cosy evening.

Nothing epitomises Danish food more than smørrebrød (literally 'buttered bread'), an open-faced sandwich that ranges from very basic fare to elaborately sculpted creations. Danish food relies heavily on fish, meat and potatoes. Typical dishes include flæskesteg (roast pork with crackling), gravad laks (cured or salted salmon marinated in dill and served with a sweet mustard sauce) and hvid labskovs (a stew made of square cuts of beef boiled with potatoes, bay leaves and pepper). The rich pastry known in most countries as 'Danish' is called wienerbrød (Vienna bread) in Denmark, and nearly every second street corner has a bakery offering a mouthwatering selection. Denmark's Carlsberg breweries produce excellent beers. The most popular spirit in Denmark is the Aalborg-produced aquavit. Beer, wine and spirits are readily available in most restaurants, cafés and grocery stores.

Environment

Denmark is a small country, most of it occupying the Jutland peninsula. The southern border of Jutland adjoins Germany, Denmark's only land connection to the European mainland. Denmark is bordered on the west by the North Sea and on the east by the Baltic Sea. To the north, separating Denmark from Norway and Sweden, are the Skagerrak and Kattegat straits. In addition there are some 400 islands, only 90 of which are inhabited. Copenhagen is on Zealand, the largest island, sitting east of the main land mass. Most of Denmark is a lowland of fertile farms, rolling hills, beech woods and heather-covered moors. The country hasn't a single mountain; the highest elevation, at Yding Skovhøj in Jutland's Lake District, is a mere 173m.

Enduring centuries of deforestation and overgrazing, the Danish environment has been heavily exploited. In all, about 20% of farmland is at or near sea level, with much of it on environmentally sensitive wetlands made arable by draining the water with pumps. The landscape has been so altered that hardly any of Denmark's naturally winding streams remain intact, the rest having been artificially straightened. About 12% of Denmark has tree cover but primary forest is rare. The woodlands are largely deciduous with a prevalence of beech and oak trees. Also found are elm, hazel, maple, pine, birch, aspen, lime (linden) and chestnut. The largest wild species found in Denmark is the red deer, which can weigh over 200 kilos. Denmark also has roe deer, fallow deer, wild hare, foxes, squirrels, hedgehogs and badgers. There are nearly 400 bird species in Denmark, of which magpies, urban pigeons, coots, geese and ducks are the most common. Denmark's largest contiguous area of woodland is Rold Skov, a 77-square-kilometre public forest that contains Denmark's only national park, Rebild Bakker.

Considering its northerly location the climate is relatively mild, moderated by the effects of the warm Gulf Stream which sweeps northward along the west coast. Nonetheless it's safest to expect rain and grey skies in Denmark, thus guaranteeing a pleasant surprise when the sunshine does break through. The most pleasant months in which to visit are from May to August, when temperatures can hover around 25 degrees and daylight lasts almost 18 hours. In the coldest winter months of January and February, the average daily temperature lingers around freezing point - and while that may be cold, it's nearly 10 degrees Celsius above average for this latitude.

Getting There & Away

The vast majority of overseas flights to Denmark arrive at Copenhagen International Airport. A few international flights, mostly coming from other Scandinavian countries or the UK, land at small regional airports in Århus, Aalborg, Esbjerg and Billund.

There are daily bus and rail services between Germany and Denmark's Jutland peninsula, which then wind their way east to Funen and then over a significant bridge to the island of Zealand and ultimately Copenhagen. The completion in July 2000 of the Øresundsforbindelsen (Øresund Fixed Link), a road-rail system stretching nearly 16km (13 mi) of bridges and tunnels between Malmo in southern Sweden and Copenhagen, has given the Danish capital a welcome (albeit artificial) land link with the rest of Scandinavia.

It's also possible to arrive from Norway and Sweden by ferry. Other boat options are the daily (high season) and weekly (berg bashing) ferries running from Germany (Kiel, Rostock, Puttgarden, Sassnitz-Mukran and the island of Sylt), Iceland (Seydisfjördur), Norway (Oslo, Kristiansand, Bergen and Larvik), Sweden (Helsingborg, Gothenburg, Varberg and Malmö), Poland (Sá;winoujá;cie) and the UK (Harwich). There are no departure taxes when leaving Denmark.

Getting Around

Domestic air travel is quite limited. The country is compact and the increasing efficiency of the rail system keeps local air travel to a minimum. There are, however, frequent flights between Copenhagen and a few more distant corners of Denmark.

Most places are serviced by regional buses, many of which are timed to connect with trains. Denmark has a good, reliable train system with reasonable fares and a frequent service. In Denmark you drive on the right-hand side of the road, seat belt use is mandatory and all drivers are required to carry a warning triangle. A web of bike paths link the country, so cycling is a practical way to get around Denmark, both within towns and also from town to town. Ferry networks link all of Denmark's populated islands, although the more adventurous might like to charter a yacht and mosey around at their leisure.

Further Reading