Back to the main page

Links

Exhaust Systems

Page Design

Feed Back


tuning.jpg (5691 bytes)

gifnightrider.gif (24414 bytes)

This page will be updated soon!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So make sure you come back to check it !!

Warning :

- Everything on this page is on your own risk !!

- It is not legal in Holland to do this kind of things !!

- The are several money penalties if you get cought by the police !!

- Your scooter will lose his insurancy !!

Lets start :

If you have a entirely authentic scooter (is should go about 45 km/h in Holland) and you want to make it go a little faster, the first thing you could / should do is to take out the restrictions set-in by the importer when the scooter was imported in Holland. A picture is shown right :

begrenzers.JPG (11270 bytes)

The big plate with a few holes (picture above) is the restricion placed above the membrane (the membrane is at the other end of the carborator and leads to the engine). When you remove this, your scooter will accelerate a lot faster, only it's fuel consumption will multiply. If you're planning to remove all the restricions you should also place a bigger sprinkler in your carborator, this could prevent you from a lot of troubles like overheating the engine, but it will enlarge your fuel consumption again.

The ring you see in the picture is located just before the first cluch (the v-snare runs over it), if you remove it, your scooter should go about 15-20 km/h faster.

The little pipe is the restriction in the curve of the authentic exhaust system, it is welded with two or three welds, you could either break it out (if the welds are not to strong) or drill them out. If you take it out, your scooter will go about 10 - 15 km faster, the acceleration is also faster.

Puch only: If you want to accelerate even faster you could remove the bented pipe on the curve (it leads to nothing), if you do, you should remember to airtighten the remaining part of the pipe as shown on the picture right:

bochtop.JPG (10444 bytes)

 

Or you could just buy a fast    curve (a curve without the  restictions), you exhaust system should then be looking like this:

uitlaator.JPG (13034 bytes)

Other parts :

If you're still not satisfied with the performance of your scooter you could make some more serious changes.

A faster exhoust :

The first thing to do is buy a faster exhaust, like a LeoVinci or Pollini. With this you should enlarge your sprinkler and adjust your rolls (how to adjust these things: look at General adjustments). You could also adjust your airfilter, but you should do this if you are a novice mechanic.

Other cylinder :

The next logically changement should be buying, stealing, finding, winning, inheriting, building or some other -ing a faster or bigger cylinder. Well which one to choose? Well what do you want? Drive a bit faster of go like hell? The choice has some effects on how to adjust your scooter. For instance if you want to drive like hell you should adjust your whole scooter, because else it will fall apart in no time (more info on this poonincx@concepts.nl ). Then you can also tune your own cylinder, but I'm not going to explain that here, that is explained in the Cylinder Tuning section below. First of all when you take a other cylinder you should always go thrue the General adjustments explained below.

Things to remember when you change or swap cylinders:

Liquid Cooled:

Everytime you have had your cylinder removed or changed it you should buy new packings, for when you use old packings they can leak because rubber will become porous after awile, and belief me you don't want cooling liquid in your engine (more info on this e.damen@tip.nl )! Say you have not enough money or don't bother to go to the garage to buy new packings you can use the old ones, but you have to use loctite nr. 8 (I'm not sure it's 8 but it has to be liquid rubber that when exposed to air becomes hard and can endure high temperatures) to ensure it doesn't leak, just apply it very thin over all the packings.

Also not forget to let out the air of the cooling system when you've just put new liquid in. Then you should run the engine for a minute or so and let the remaining air out of the cooling system. Usually there is a special bolt with a hole thrue it, on top of the cylinderhead, especially for the job.

Another thing not to forget is when you buy new pistonsprings is that they can't be made from the same material as the cylinderwall. For example when you have a chromewall you can't have chrome pistonsprings.

And when the mechanical work is finally done, don't forget to run in your cylinder for about 300 km.

Air Cooled:

This is easy compared to liquid cooled, just be sure to thighten all the bolts, and use new packings ofcourse.

 

Some pictures of cylinders:

cilinder.JPG (29635 bytes)

Authentic liquid cooled Puch cylinder (50 cc) with cylinderhead, piston and packings

70cc.JPG (15540 bytes)

Liquid cooled Euro 75 cc race cylinder with piston

50cc70cc.JPG (11719 bytes)

50 cc piston and 75 cc piston, you can see the extra spoolholes on the big one

70cc2.JPG (12280 bytes)

Liquid cooled Euro 75 cc race cylinder with piston

70cc50cc.JPG (8999 bytes)

Two pistons again

Other first clutch :

There are mainly two types of them: ones that make the engine make more rpm (rounds per minute) and ones that make the engine go faster to maximum rpm, the first makes your scooter go faster, the other makes it accelerate faster, you choose which one you take.

 

Other second clutch :

It just makes your engine drive faster and accelerates faster. In the clutch there are two types of springs, both shown right on the picture:

With the small springs you can make the clutch pickup the v-snare at higher rpm, so the engine gets the chance to pick up more rpm and you can accelerate faster, well this is when you use thighter springs, don't put in to thight springs because then your engine will make a lot of rpm, but will not get away.

With the big springs you can accomplish the same effect.

 

variateur.JPG (24000 bytes)

Authentic first Puch clutch

accsoi.JPG (21447 bytes)

Some Pollini springs and rolls

Other transmissionset :

There are two types: primary and secudairy. With both you can make your scooter accelerate faster and have a slower topspeed or just the other way around. Just let a professional mechanic handle it, it is not very difficult to change them but  I don't want to explain entirely how to do it for the simple fact that it would take to much of my time, and my english would probably not allow it.

 

Other carborator :

A bigger carborator makes your scooter accelerate faster, and makes the fuel consumption a lot higher.

 

General adjustments:

 

Adjusting your sprinker :

To finding the right sprinkler is not really hard; if it is to small your sparking plug should turn out white or grey after 20-50 km. If your sprinker is to big, you will notice that, when you approach topspeed, the rpm of your engine will drop a bit, so your engine will falter, if you then turndown your gas a bit it will run smooth again.

Adjusting rolls :

Adjusting your rolls ain't that hard either; if your rolls are to heavy your engine will not reach maximum rpm and your scooter will not accelerate very fast, you can check this by painting a small line (from then center to the top) on the running surface of the v-snare at the front of the first clutch, if your engine reaches maximum rpm then the line will be gone when you check for it after a test drive, else the toppart of the line will still be there, so you will be needing lighter rolls. If your rolls are to light your engine makes maximum rpm very fast but still your scooter is not accelerating very fast nor will it drive very fast. So the best rolls are the one that makes your engine get to maximum rpm fairly easy but not to easy, if you know what I mean, your scooter will be performing the best in both acceleration and topspeed.

Adjusting airfilter :

This is kind of different from adjusting your rolls or sprinker because you can't check right away if you did the right thing. To adjust your airfilter you should take/ drill out a plastic cap that is situated at the beginning of your airfilter (the part that the air comes in from outside). Then you should drill little holes in the plastic walls inside your airfilter but becareful which walls to penetrate because if you penetrate the wrong walls the air will come in your engine unfiltered and this could and will do serious harm to your engine. The main idea about adjusting your airfilter is to make the aire come quicker inside your carborator. Remember when you adjust your airfilter you should also adjust your sprinker!!! You could also buy a special powerfilter, made for 70cc or more.

Cylinder Tuning :

There are a few things you can do:

- Level of the cylinderhead so you get more compression and you will drive faster and accelerate harder. This a thing that everybody can do: just take a very smooth surface, like a plate of glass and put very soft sandpaper over it, take your cylinderhead, usually there are round marks on it indicating how far you can take off the cylinderhead, and start rubbing over it in 8-s, this way it will stay level all over.

- Scoff your cylinder: this is something only a professional can do right. A friend of mine tried it with a drill, and is still saving for a new cylinder. Remember your old piston won't fit anymore.

- you can file your spoolholes so the fuel mixture will come in your cylinder faster. This is fairly easy done just drill out whatever is in the way :).

 

priover.JPG (34336 bytes)

Primary transmission

secuover.JPG (13146 bytes)

Secundary transmission

carbateur.JPG (18064 bytes)

An authentic carborator

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All the cool race parts on one picture!!! (these are the parts used on the Puch NRG mc˛)