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Ord’s Guide to Cycling in Europe
With an emphasis on budget travelling
Our experiences and advice for cycling in Europe
INTRODUCTION
General Comments
Austria
CzechRepublic
France
Germany
Hungary
Italy
Liechtenstein
Luxembourg
Netherlands
Morocco
Slovakia
Slovenia
Spain
Switzerland
GENERAL COMMENTS
- COSTS: It cost us 18 US dollars (USD) per person, per day in 1998(including tires, maps, film, some equipment purchased along the way and train fares within Europe). In 2001 it cost us less (11 USD/day) or 12 Euro/day/person. Costs exclude insurance and flights to Europe. Costs provided by country (below) exclude "unusual" items (like equipment).
- MAPS: 1:200,000 were the most appropriate. We purchased them as we went along (details by country below). There is a website on European maps for Cyclists: Best European Maps
- DISTANCES: We rode 75-80 km per dayin 1998. In 2001 we rode 60 km per day. Often towns/campsites dictated shorter or longer days. A person alone tends to ride further in a day (nothing to do but ride). More than one person will go as fast/far as the slowest person. That means those strong cycling guys should think about pulling the gear in a trailer and lightening the other person's load weight.
- GEOGRAPHY: southern coastlines were disappointing (tourist developments) and border regions were often the best (hilly and no traffic). Atlantic coastlines have many nice areas especially in the SW of France.
- STRETCHING: a daily stretch routine (a few minutes is enough) is important to maintain elasticity in the muscles and to look after the back. We experienced no serious body pains other than occasional saddle sores.It would also be a good idea to incorporate stretching and some muscle toning for the back. Push-ups or sit-ups compensate for the lack of stomach muscle development (none) while riding.
- FOOD: The great joy of cycling! We cooked our own food in the evenings. Granola/bananas/milk with juice and coffee did the trick for breakfast. Picnic lunches were the norm.
- FAVOURITE COUNTRIES: France with Czech Republic, Switzerland and Andalucia(Southern Spain)well back but very enjoyable.
- WEATHER: Bad weather (wet and cold) can "dampen" a bike trip. There is an element of luck, but the wrong season can be avoided with a little research and trip planning. For instance, in most regions of Spain would be brutal during the summer months (June-August). We met a number of cyclists who abandoned Spain for that very reason. However, the far north (Atlantic region) would be ideal at that time. In 2001, September was very wet in northern Europe, while in other years September can be brilliant.
- RESEARCH (where/when to go): A hard-to-find, out-of-print book, Nicholas Crane’s "Cycling in Europe" (Pan Books) is good. A good public library has good cycling books. The Internet takes a long time to wade through (lots of junk). Get an idea of which region interests you, then away you go! Flipping through Michelin regional guides or other travel guides can give you an idea of what tourist sites there are to visit. Following someone else’s cycling itinerary really is not necessary and even self-defeating. Discover it for yourself!
- BIKES ON TRAINS: Good web sites exists on this:
European on-line railway schedule (with some bicycle icons)
Taking your bike on planes & trains with airport guide
AUSTRIA
CZECH REPUBLIC
FRANCE
GERMANY
HUNGARY
OUR EXPERIENCE: 10 nights in July; we followed the Danube part way, stayed in Budapest and rode the western border areas. It was hot. We enjoyed it and could have stayed longer
BIKING: Our limited experience in the rolling hill country bordering Austria had light traffic and interesting towns. We skipped Lake Balaton as it was peak tourist season.
CAMPING: Good quality tourist campgrounds (10 USD for 2 people) had swimming pools; perfect for a hot day. Less developed sites cost less and were fine. There is a reasonable network of campgrounds in the country.
MAPS: We picked up a spiral 1:200,000 map book when we entered Hungary. It was fine.
COSTS: 16 USD/person/day. Including a few good restaurant meals in Budapest. The capital city pushed our average costs up.
SUPERMARKETS: Very good. Simple in small towns.
INFORMATION: Brochures and camping guides are available from friendly tourist offices.
LANGUAGE: A Hungarian phrasebook was useful but not essential. German is sometimes spoken.
SWIMMING POOLS: A mid-day break at a public swimming pool (you can often bring your bike into the grounds) was a nice treat. The Buk thermal pools were a different, positive experience.
Our 1998 route: click on the map to see the full size map
Our Itinerary:
From Slovakia-Esztergom-Budapest (via Szentendre)-train to Sopron-Buk-Szombathely-Oriszentper-onto Slovenia
ITALY
- OUR EXPERIENCE: We spent 4 weeks in the flat Po valley, riding from Milan to Venice return in April/May 1999. It was easy cycling and we took our time, visiting many of the historic towns and cities. Weather was good most of the time (low 20's celcius, sometimes foggy, always humid).
- ROADS: We found plenty of quieter roads throughout the Po Valley. Drivers were courteous.
- MAPS: touring Club Italiano 1:200,000 maps (9,500 Lire) were fair. The maps were 95% accurate. The white roads were dirt roads about half the time (our mountain bikes came in handy on dirt and on the cobbled streets). Campsites were not marked on the maps.
- CAMPSITES: Italian campsites are concentrated along the seaside. We found them to be somewhat over-priced compared to other European campsites and averaged about 30,000 Lire (15 Euros) for two cyclists. Showers were always HOT. Each region we visited had free camping guides available from Tourist Offices. The campsite at Bologna cost 18,000 Lire per person and the Tuscany campsites cost even more. "Wild camping", especially near rivers, is very possible. Camping carnets provided us more discounts than anywhere else in Europe. The Cremona and Ferrera campsites stood out as nice, good value places (about 20,000 Lire for 2 with camping carnet) on the outskirts of very nice towns. We were also able to camp at a couple of youth hostels for a very reasonable charge.
- VENICE CAMPING: We found the "Serrinisima" site at Oriago to be very quiet and well run. A 20-25 minute bus ride (1,800 Lire) brought you into town. It cost 28,000 Lire for 2, which is a very good deal in Venice.
- COSTS: We found Italy to be manageable, It cost us about 18 USD (18 Euros) per person per day.
It would cost more if you visited museums, ate in restaurants, etc.
- WHICH REGIONS: Apparently, Le Marche and Umbria are the best overall cycling regions. Tuscanny can be brutally hilly. The Po valley is the only flat area in the country.
- CLIMATE: May is the best. Summers can be very hot.
- HOTELS: We didn't stay in any but basic hotels apparently average around 100,000 Lire (not cheap!).
- RESTAURANTS: Eating out can be quite reasonable.
- Our Itinerary:
Milan, train to Lodi, Cremona, Sirmione (Lago di Garda), Verona, Montagnana, Venice (via Arqu Petrarra, Brenta Canal), Rosalina sur Mar, Ferrera, Bologna, Modena, day trip around Vignola (nothing special), Guastella (via Carpi), Parma (via Sabbionetta, Casalmaggiore and Colorno), day trip around Torrechiara (very nice), Cremona (via Fontanellato and Busseto), Pavia, Milan.
LIECHTENSTEIN
- OUR EXPERIENCE: It’s a tiny country; we spent 2 nights there; you could ride through in a day. We liked it.
- BIKING: We followed the Rhine bike path and roads. Riding into the mountains would make some good (tough) day trips. There is a good cycling infrastructure.
- CAMPING: We stayed at both campsites (there are 2 in the entire country). Very good.
- MAPS: Extensions of Swiss or German maps are sufficient.
- COSTS: Same as Switzerland. They use the Swiss Franc as currency.
- THE HIGHLIGHT: We "knocked off" four countries in a morning (Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Liechtenstein).
- Our Itinerary:
- From Bodensee (Germany)-Bendern-Vaduz-onto Switzerland
-
LUXEMBOURG
MOROCCO
- OUR EXPERIENCE: We left our bikes behind in Spain at a campsite. We were in Morocco for 53 nights from December to January.
- WHEN TO GO: November to March can be surprisingly wet. Our experience was 3 very wet and cold days every week. It is hot in the summer. Best in October or April?
- WHERE: Central Morocco looks most promising. Watch out for the long distances!
- TRAINS AND BUSES: We saw no provision for bikes on the trains, but buses do take bikes for a fee.
- FIRST HAND EXPERIENCE: We met 3 touring cyclists. Their biggest issue was kids begging in the villages; when the rode out of town, they were often stoned (the rock type, not the drug kind) by the very same kids. Their overall experience didn’t sound great. We’d recommend taking the bus and doing some walking in the mountains instead but each to their own!
-
NETHERLANDS
- Cycling in the Netherlands website (A very good resource by Bas van Oudheusden)
- OUR EXPERIENCE: We spent 2 weeks in September 2001 and got rained out.We would like to have seen much more of the country but the weather was so poor. Some very nice places and fun to ride in good weather.
- CAMPING: Plenty. We paid anywhere from 16 to 25 Guilders (upto 11 Euros). Thery were well run.
- MAPS: At ANWB stores you can buy 2 maps that cover the entire country with major cycle paths marked. The cost 20 guilder(9 Euros) each and are water-proof! The map is called "De Sterkste, Fietskaart van Nederland" in the "Handig formaat" (small pocket size with velcro closure)
- SUPERMARKETS: OK and in convenient locations. Albert Heijn is tough to avoid and the best. Some of the discount German stores(LIDL or Aldi) are making inroads.
- COSTS: we spent about 25-30 guilders (12-14 Euros) per day each.
- ROUTES: Some of the small farmer's roads are nicer and more interesting than the prescribed cycle routes. The quiet roads are quiet.
- Our 2001 Itinerary:
- Cycled in the area north of Amsterdam, then we cycled to Hook van Holland by the inland route from Amsterdam.
SLOVAKIA
OUR EXPERIENCE: Just 3 nights in the south to avoid following the (boring) Danube. Agricultural land; it was hot. It was a strange surreal experience at times.
BIKING: Generally quiet, once away from Bratislava. Good roads. The north would be mountainous and more challenging.
CAMPING: In July, the campsites were very busy and often part of a recreational complex (thermal pools, disco, etc.)
MAPS: We used the Czech/Slovakian map that we had purchased in Czech Republic.
COSTS: 10 USD per person per day.
SUPERMARKETS: Sometimes basic, but very adequate.
INFORMATION: The Bratislava tourist office furnished us with a camping brochure.
LANGUAGE: Similar to Czech.
BEER: good, similar to Czech beer (not quite as good).
WE DID NOT ENJOY: Riding east out of Bratislava
Our Itinerary:
From Viennna-Bratislava-Sala-Levice-onto Hungary
SLOVENIA
OUR EXPERIENCE: Only a week in July/August and much of that staying with friends. Very enjoyable. Warm sunny weather.
BIKING: Very good in border areas, but busier roads in the more populated areas.
CAMPING: Good campsites for about 7 USD per person.
COSTS: 12 USD per person per day. Prices are a little more than neighbouring Hungary but much less than Austria to the north.
MAPS: We worked off the edge of our Austrian and Hungarian maps. The Freytag map and others are locally available.
SUPERMARKETS: Fairly good.
INFORMATION: Tourist offices and camping guide available.
LANGUAGE: We muddled through. There were some similarities with Czech. German or English are sometimes understood.
HIGHLIGHTS: Postojna caves and Bled Lake are not to be missed.
Our Itinerary:
From Hungary-entered Slovenia-took train to Zalec (friends)-visited Ljublijana-Postojancaves, bled by car-Logarska Dolina-onto Austria
SPAIN
SWITZERLAND
