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Forty-seven years
ago, my ambition took me out of the Philippines to gamble my life into an uncertain and
unfamiliar world. I matured in cold
environments and lived most of my life in places that endured the seasonal assault of
winter. But it had been in 1964 that I’d
experienced a full-fledged blizzard of 150° below zero temperature. That was when I was assigned and stationed in the
South Pole, where the only other population besides us, were penguins and polar bears. After the initial astonishment had passed (along
with an impulse to shovel a mountain of snow), one thought remained and haunted me¾ the enchantment of
the tropical climate. My longing for warm
weather resurrect my memories of Baler sixty-seven years back. I used to stroll along the shore of the Outer
Banks; an island a kilometer away east of town¾ Sabang, Labasin,
and Buton. The hamlet of Castillo
at the southern tip was once a part of it. But
that area was transformed and relocated by the tidal waves on the other side. It was in 1847,
that castillo (fortress) came into existence.
Two were built, one was located atop Point Baja (Ermita), and
the other was by the outfall of Kinalapan-Pingit River.
The construction was an innovation of the parish priest, Fray Jose Urbina de
Esparragosa assigned in Baler from June 7, 1840 to 01 May 26, 1853. Accordingly, the
fortresses were built as an observation post or a watchtower. It served to warn the community of
marauders/pirates coming to Baler Bay, which happened on occasions. The most severe and catastrophic occurred in the
summer of 1798. Marauders from southern
Philippines plundered and swept the towns along the Pacific seaboard. In Baler, they had taken prisoner Fray Benito
Zambudio or Zamudio, the parish priest, and held him for ransom. Today the fortress
of Ermita no longer exist it was rooted out by Mother Nature. But on the site where it once stood, a grotto of
the blessed mother was erected with the surrounding complimented by modern picnic
facilities.
With the influx of
people from the nearby towns of Casiguran, Infanta, Polilio, as far as the Bicol regions,
the fortress by the outfall had grown into a thriving fishing community. The inhabitants that settled there named the
community Castillo, the fortress. Consequently,
during the tidal waves of the early seventies, the community of Castillo was
cut off from the Outer Banks and shifted on the other side of Kinalapan-Pingit River below
Ermita. The people renamed the
eroded area, Tibag. The
Fortress that was moved by the tidal waves survived the destruction. It was now 154 years old located at the back of
the chapel engulfed by fig trees and other undergrowth.
Regrettably, nobody notices and pay much attention to it. It had been
unfortunate that such historical entity was neglected, overlooked and forgotten. I fervently hope that some concerned and wishful
politicians from Baler will pave the way for its renovation and preservation. This magnificent landmark should be preserved as
part of the history of Baler, a legacy for the future generations of Aurora province to
comprehend.
On the other hand,
the shore of the Outer Banks where tropical splendors are both enticing and alluring has a
history both disastrous and heroic. It was one Sunday
on January 1886, after mass, when Fray Venancio Angulo, the parish priest of Palanan who
was in Baler vacationing went for a dip in Labasin.
He was accompanied by eight years old Manuel L. Quezon, who at that time was
living at the convent with Fray Teodoro Fernandez, the parish priest of Baler, and the
Sacristan mayor his cousin, Abdon Poblete, and another relative. Both were excellent swimmers. It was during the months of November thru March
that the northeast monsoon blows tremendously on the east coast of Luzon. The waves propelled by the wind velocity across
the vast Pacific were gigantic, as they always are during the monsoon seasons, almost
mountainous on occasion and the riptide was powerful.
A huge wave knocked down the priest and little Manuel and the undercurrent
carried them out to the Bay. However, his
cousin Abdon was able to grab Manuel by the hair and dragged him down the beach. They came back for Father Angulo, but lamentably
their effort was unsuccessful. They were not
able to find him or his body. It was washed
ashore before darkness enveloped the light of day. This
pathetic incident had deleteriously impacted the people of Baler that lasted for some
time. Similar incident
happened on Sunday, 11 o’clock on 17 May 1948. Father
Herman Esselman after baptism decided to go for a swim in Labasin and invited Brother
Vincent Scheerer to come along together with the altar boys and other kids from Baler. Some of us, resident of the convent, also came
along; Senyon Novicio (Sacristan Mayor), Ruben Sindac, Ernesto Gonzales, Arming and Rudy
Valenzuela, myself, Jorge de la Torre, and Ezer Gonzales. On the beach we
were drawn out into our own personal activities. Ruben,
Senyong, and myself wallowed on the beach and built sandcastle. We did not concern
ourselves about the others chasing talikakas (fiddler crabs). Father Herman with Ezer and Ernesto went for a
dipped straight into the bay followed by Brother Vincent.
They were just floating and gliding through the rolling waves while enjoying
the foamy surf breaking through surface. All
of a sudden a big rolling wave swamped on them and carried them further out to sea. They tried to swim back ashore but the riptide was
so strong they were held back. Ernesto
was able to hold on to Brother Vincent. When
the undertow receded Brother Vincent, with his last strength dragging Ernesto with him
struggle back ashore catching his breath. For
a moment, we on the beach were unaware of what was going on in my surroundings. I kept on chasing the tampalpuki
(flounder) flapping through the receding tide struggling to go back at sea. Suddenly, we heard someone yelled, “nalulunod
na sila!” When I looked around
towards the ocean, I could barely see them. Father
Herman with Ezer clinging to him were waving their hands and yelling for help. Brother Vincent still recovering, enervated and
tired gasping for breath, jumped back to the sea. When
he reached them, he slowly dragged them ashore. Without
words from everyone and with Father Herman still throwing off the seawater he ingested,
knelt and prayed to thank God saving them from this unforeseen tragedy. On October 17,
1897, transport Cebu (ship) disembarked hundred men of the Spanish Army on the beach of
the Outer Banks from Manila, under the command of Captain Don Jesus Roldan Maizonada; they
were the relief requested by Don Antonio Irizarri, to quell the Filipino insurgents that
massacred Lieutenant Mota’s men the evening of October 4-5, 1897. Maizonada’s men did not make it to the
garrison for two days. Novicio and his men
held them back, until they were overwhelmed, and eventually retreated back to the
hinterland.
On the morning of
April 11, 1899, the USS Yorktown, United States navy gunboat anchored at Baler Bay under
the command of Commodore William Sperry, USN, on assigned mission to enact the attempted
relief of the Spanish garrison of four officers and fifty men besieged in Baler Church
from June 27, 1898 to June 2, 1899 by Filipino insurgents. Immediately,
Commodore Sperry directed Ensign W. H. Standley to go ashore with a message to be
delivered to the Commander of the beleaguered Spanish garrison. Ensign Standley promptly dislodged a whaleboat
from the ship with assistance from the ship’s crew, and paddled his way ashore under
a flag of truce. As he was turning the bow of
the whaleboat toward the bay, he did not notice that squad of Filipino insurgents were
already aligned on the beach awaiting him. An
officer of the Philippine insurgent in uniform, Major Nemecio Bartolome approached the
boat. Standley met him and through an
interpreter informed the Major of his mission to deliver a letter intended for the
Commander of the Spanish garrison. Major
Bartolome retorted that he could not allow him to communicate with the garrison and stated
further that no one could approach the church without being fired upon. Also, he warned him that in view that the
Americans were fighting the Filipinos, he doesn’t have any further communication with
him, and that should he approach the beach again, he would be fired upon.
Ensign Standley
returned to the ship despondent and reported the outcome of his mission to the Commanding
Officer who after assessing the situation, decided that another attempt to contact the
garrison should be made. He therefore
instructed Standley to go ashore again, but as foretold he was fired upon. He retreated back to the ship. An hour after
returning back from ashore, Standley stood watch on the bridge as an officer-of-the-deck. The commodore approached him with binocular
in hand scanning the beach and conversed with him about the importance of their mission. He concluded his statement by saying: “I hate to go
back and report to the admiral that I have been unable to carry out his order. On the other hand it seems nonsensical to attempt
to force our way through when we have no information whatever as to the location of the
church, nor can we obtain any information from the highest lookout station on the ship, as
nothing is visible from there.” Pondering on the
thoughts of the commodore about the situation, Ensign Standley suggested the possibility
of obtaining the needed information about the location of church by getting up to the
summit of Point Baja, fringed by Baler Kinalapan-Pingit River south of the
town. The commodore expressed doubt of the
possibility in reaching the summit without being spotted by the Filipino insurgents. Nevertheless, he stuck to his idea and assured the
commodore that he felt sure it could be accomplished. At dinner, the
commodore summoned Ensign Standley and Lieutenant James C. Gillmore at the poop deck. When they reached him, he was conversing with his
executive officer. Seeing Ensign Standley and
Lt. Gillmore, the commodore diverted the conversation and said: “Standley, I have been contemplating
over your suggestion and I would like to know if you think you can make the trip.” He asserted without much ado. Lieutenant James
C. Gillmore, boarded the USS Yorktown in Manila, a day before it went underway for Baler
as the ship’s navigator. The briefings for
the returned expedition were again quickly put into action.
At dawn, April 12, 1899, a whaleboat was lowered from the starboard side of
the Yorktown with Lt. James C. Gillmore, plus fourteen crews. They took off and ferried
Ensign Standley and Quartermaster J. Lysaught by Munting Gasang below Point
Baja (Ermita). After the two
disembarked, Gillmore pulled away. Standley
and Lysaught made their way up the summit and map the area where Baler church could be
seen and located. Standley accomplished his
mission with no incidents and returned to the beach.
They were picked up by another boat from the ship. Meanwhile, Lieutenant Gillmore with fourteen
crews: Paul Vaudoit, Sailmakers Mate, William Walton, Chief Quartermaster J. Ellsworth,
E.J. Nygard, Gunners Mate, W. H. Rynders, Cockswain O. W. Woodbury, Seaman, O. B. M.
McDonald, Ordinary Seaman, D. G. A. Venville, 2nd Class Apprentice, John
Dillon, Landsman, C. A. Morrissey, Landsman, L. P. Edwards, Landsman, Fred Anderson,
Landsman, Silvio Brisolese, Landsman, and Albert Peterson, Apprentice. Gillmore pressed
onward to their assigned area, the mouth of Kinalapan-Pingit River as diversionary taking
soundings of the water depth. For no apparent
reason Lt. Gillmore decided to go upriver despite a warning from an onlooker, a portent of
much to come. About a kilometer
from the outfall of the river on its sharp bend (known then as Ubbot),
Gillmore and his crew were befallen by misfortune. The
Filipino insurgents ambushed them. John Dillon,
sitting on the bow beside Layman Edwards was shot right in the forehead. Two crew member Morrissey and Nygard were
mortally wounded. McDonald was also killed. When
Lt. Gillmore finally ordered to raise a white flag, the firing ceased. Had the Filipinos been good shooters, they could
have been all killed. After the commotion,
everybody was ordered off the boat with the exception of the dead and the wounded. They were lined on the beach for execution. However, before the command for execution was
given, a man on horseback came galloping along the river bank yelling to stop the
onslaught on order of the presidente. They
were marched to town and kept there for three days, then proceeded to San Isidro, Nueva
Ecija. From Nueva Ecija they were taken further north to the Ilocos region. On the middle
of the jungle their captors deserted them. Colonel
Luther Hare and his party rescued them on 28 December 1899.
Since that
historic event, the serenity of shore along the Outer Banks remained undisturbed. The only tedious activities taking place were the dehin
tinik (residents of the Sabang) snaring fish for livelihood. But in late 1943, the tranquility of the shore was
once again disrupted. This time, it was the
Japanese occupying force.
Captain Hatori the
commander of the Japanese garrison in Baler, ordered to commandeer every able-bodied man
to work on the construction of fill-boxes along the shores, extending from the Outer Banks
to Ditale in Dipaculao. Those were in
anticipation and preparation for the return of American forces to reclaim the Philippines,
should they land in Baler bay. It never
materialized. About mid-March
1945, some Japanese strugglers captured by 205th Squadron were liquidated on
the beach of the Outer Banks. This was to
avenge the horrible death of seven Balerians beheaded by the Japanese. Those Japanese that did not die instantly were
left to the mercy of the Ilongots.
While my
upbringing are not directly related to my experience, the fact remains that images of the
tropics are powerful antidotes to frigid temperature, the Outer Banks of Baler offers
warmth and beyond, offer the expected, always a source of an imaginable ideal tropical
Shangri-la. Its arching bay
offers the most important nesting habitat for varieties of marine life. Walking through
the beach, one would experience the ocean breeze with the warmth of the shores. This could accurately be described as a Utopia of
ecstasy. Break away from your usual daily
grind and enjoy the excitements that the Outer Banks has to offer, the incredible natural
wonders, the most exciting nightlife, the uniqueness of its people and the landscape so
spectacular. The Outer Banks
offers inexpensive resorts, as well as affordable digs for tourist. On the beach, you can sun and dive at posh or
laid-back seaside shacks. During my visit in
1998, I checked out both the upscale and the down-island, and found that the Outer Banks
is equally accessible to those of us who just want to get off life’s treadmill for a
week and relax. At first glance,
the Outer Banks—two kilometers long, stretching about a kilometer at its widest
point—seem a bit underwhelming. It’s
scrubby, flat-island whose primary beauty lies in its shorelines. Its principal industries traditionally were
fishing (still revenue producer) and agriculture. Tourism,
now is the Outer Bank’s minor source of support, especially surfers from out of the
Philippines, has become a prominent economic force in the past four years. While the Outer
Banks has been an off-beaten-track destination for travelers in search of peace, quiet and near-deserted beaches for scores, its
transformation into a glamorous spot is relatively recent.
The tourist revolution started when Baler became the capital of Aurora
province. Just as big a plus
as Outer Banks’ peaceful atmosphere are its locals.
Residents go beyond being merely polite or pleasantly cheerful, easily
inviting you into their lives, and showing you around. Amid all this
down-home reality is Outer Banks popular beach, Labasin and Sabang, a lovely spot dotted
with barbecue shacks and restaurant. Most
popular is Bay’s Inn restaurant. Along the shore
sprouted several inexpensive inns and discotheque, where nightlife will ease the evening
from one’s daily drabness. The most
popular are Bays Inn, Maharlika Resort, Baler Guest-House, and MIA Surf and Sport Resort. To gallivant and ease the evening out, one has to
try the Majarajah. It would be an experience
of a lifetime. It is well maintained,
immaculate and cozy. It has a dining hall
closed to the beach area. Others like it included; Angara’s Inn, Amihan and Villaluz
Inn. Not far from the
discotheque areas is the Headquarters of the Philippine National Police (HPNP). Half a kilometer away, northward is the vacation
house of Bellaflor Angara-Castillo, Congresswoman from Aurora province. On the northern tip, is the outfall of Aguang
River (Kabilang Sabangan), better known during the founding of
old town Baler as the river San Jose. This area was setting of Coppola’s “Apocalypse
Now” filmed in 1976-79. Off the
western side is Duongan River, a tributary of Pudok River emanating from the hinterland. Duongan merges with Baler (Kinalapan-Pingit) River
to the south and out to Baler Bay by the inner-loop of Munting Gasang. Stretching from
the estuary of Aguang to the outfall of Baler (Kinalapan-Pingit) River only about two
kilometers apart, These beach resorts overlooking the Pacific Ocean, is a paradise known
to have existed as early as the late 16th century until the town was engulfed by a
tremendous waves on the eve of 27 December 1735, that made it nearly as old as Baler
itself. The panoramic vistas it offers have
always been popular with locals and outsiders of Aurora province sightseers. Surfing is an
unfamiliar sport in the Philippines as I am aware of, until lately. I know about the sport, but have no idea it
became popular hobby in Baler, until Noel Duaso, the Aurora Surfing Cup judge related it
to me. He claimed he was the first surfer
from Baler. That was 1982, after I had been
gone away from Baler for eighteen years, just to return to attend the funeral service of
my beloved mother. During my teen
years, surfing was nil and unheard of in Baler. I
only became familiar with sport when I was in San Diego during the late 50s. I enjoyed watching the surfers gliding thru the
waves, but did not catch on me as hobby. There,
it was a routine.
Apparently, the
birth of surfing in Baler have taken place August 1997, when the first Aurora Surfing Cup
were conceived and organized through the combined efforts of Olin G. Duaso; Contest
Director, and Vangie Palacios; Adviser and Director of Beach Social Events, with supports
from the political machineries of Aurora province, and sponsorship’s of Promotional
Media from Hawaii; Action Asia Magazine, etc. The first event had taken place September
18-22, from the shore of the Outer Banks and the delta of the Aguang River. The main events took place at the shoal of Malaking
Gasang the site where Dapang Bato was located, on the coral reef of Puntian. That site is about a kilometer away from where the
vacation house of the late President Manuel L. Quezon and family stood. Today Surfing Cup is an annual event in Aurora. When the
Franciscan missionaries discovered Baler, the shore had been a kind of back alley running
between coastal missions. Today, the shore is
as popular as ever and draws many visitors, especially frolicking kids that make the beach
a lovely¾place along with,
and of course the astounding vistas of the Pacific Ocean dominated by silhouettes of the
blue-green mountain of the Sierra Madre extending from the foreground, San Ildefonso
peninsula west-southward to the promontory of Point Encanto(Pokpok-na-Bundok),
where Pagasa weather facility is located.
Medievally, the
Outer Banks of Baler is what was left of Kinagunasan, a footprint of old town Baler that
vanished on the night of 1735. The view depicted
above was a picture of the shore of the Outer Banks taken during the late 1800s. So much has changed since then. The Outer Banks of
Baler is the kind of place where a man can be gone for 47 years and still feel the call to
go back. It has a certain welcome about it¾a welcome built
around people, all surround with healthy doses of panoramic scenery and tranquility. Whether you’re rekindling the romance of a
lifetime or just starting out, you’ll find the honeymoon of your dreams on this
tropical island of splendor. |
