You've heard it before and I'll say it again: It's not what you put on the dog, it's what you put in him. You have to feed a healthy, natural, balanced diet for your dogs to have healthy skin, and healthy skin produces healthy hair. It's that simple. You can try to make up for a poor quality kibble by pumping the dog full of medications or "miracle supplements" but it's not going to work!
Having that said, you cannot have a good coat if the dog has fleas. Nothing ruins a coat quite like a scratching dog. Luckily, you will have an easy time controlling fleas if your dog is fed a good diet…fleas do not find that strong, healthy skin near as appealing as a raw, itchy skin caused by allergies caused or amplified by a poor diet. I speak from experience on this one. Living in Florida, the parasite capital of the world (and I don't mean just the tourists), we had a bad time with fleas when Tucker was a puppy. Until he was about 2 years old, he had hot spots, ear infections, the itchies, you name it…he was also fed a less than great brand of food. After doing a lot of research, his diet was improved to a more natural, individualized diet, and not only did the fleas leave, but all the so-called allergies and skin problems are a thing of the past.
Florida is a terrible place to try to grow coat on a dog. It never gets cold enough during the winter for the dog to grow any undercoat, and it's too hot during the summer for the undercoat to keep him cool, so basically the dogs are relatively hairless the whole time. However, your dog doesn't have to have a thick coat to have a healthy coat, so don't use that excuse!
So on to Tucker & Maguire's grooming tips.

A clean coat is a healthy coat. A lot of people go under the notion that bathing strips away the natural oils of the coat, so they never bath their dog. I'm not one of these people. I don't know how they can stand it! To me, the most beautiful coats on a dog are those of the show English Setters and English Springers. Ask their handlers and they will tell you those dogs are bathed at the very least, three times a week. Hair doesn't grow when it is dirty, and if it is oily, it attracts dirt like a magnet.
So my dogs get bathed once a week in the summer, and about every 3 weeks in the winter. They are always bathed outside with the hose. Here are some tips for bathing:
1) If the weather is above 40 degrees, use regular cold hose water. This will encourage undercoat growth, is soothing to any irritated skin, and dries quicker. Only use warm water (and luke warm, not hot!) if it is very, very cold out, or the dog has started to shed. Using warm water will loosen up the hair follicles and aid in shedding.
2) Wash the dog without a collar, or with a thin metal slip collar. Any nylon collar will retain the soap and irritate the skin. Leave this collar (or no collar) on the dog while he dries…leaving a thick collar on while he dries will leave a ring around his neck.
3) Does your dog walk around while you hunker over him, attempting to bath him? You can tell him stand and stay all you want but he's going to make his way closer and closer to the garage while you wash away. Buy a small stool, about 8-12 inches tall, one that has rubber feet so it won't slide, and teach the dog the command "paws up!" This simply means, "put your front paws on this." Pretty simple, just lead him up with a treat and tell him to stay after he gets it. Have your dog stand with his front paws on the stool while you wash and he won't move a muscle. It really does work like a charm! Tucker gets up on the stool by himself when he sees me turning the hose on and getting out the shampoo, and Maguire, agile beast that he is, attempts to put his back feet up, too. Goofball.
4) Be sure and rinse incredibly well. Many irritations are caused by leftover soap. Irritations cause hot spots. NOT FUN!

Shampoo Reviews:
1) My dogs are bathed with a simple recipe of shampoo: 1 part liquid Dial antibacterial soap, 1 part white vinegar. Mix well, wash dog. The Dial kills fleas, ticks, germs, and dirt; the vinegar gets rid of any residue on the hair from other grooming products, kills any bad odors, and also promotes activity in the follicles. Many holistic books suggest topical application of vinegar to promote hair growth and sooth irritated skin. This shampoo leaves the dog smelling good, the hair is soft but not limp. It doesn't strip the oil from the coat and leave it open and fuzzy. Only one drawback: a friend of mine used this on her Samoyed and it stained his fur yellow! So be careful with white dogs! I highly suggest this shampoo.
2) J-B Golden Almond Shampoo. This shampoo is incredibly economic, being that one gallon of concentrate will make 16 gallons of shampoo. This shampoo is great for frequent bathings, being very gentle. It smells really good and rinses well. Doesn't kill parasites, leaves coat a bit too silky for a proper retriever's coat.
3) Tomlin Nova-Pearls Tar Coal Shampoo. This was the only shampoo that I could use on my Aussie, Benny. He would go nuts whenever he smelled like anything other than a dog, and would scratch himself if I used any other kind of shampoo. This shampoo smells like a cross between a pharmacy and burning tires, but it's great for a dog with sensitive skin.
4) Miracle Coat Tea Tree Oil Shampoo (Formerly Mela Miracle). Wow, this is great stuff. For dogs with or without skin problems it's great. It smells good, is great on hot spots or fleabite dermatitis. Leaves the coat with proper texture. However, it's a bit expensive. I suggest diluting it, to defray costs, and it can be tough to rinse out when it isn't diluted. Good stuff.
5) Adams Flea Shampoo. This is the stuff they sell at every vet and pet store, it's in a blue bottle and the shampoo itself is blue. This shampoo will kill fleas, ticks, you name it. It really does a great job at thoroughly cleaning the dog. It smells pretty good, too. You should dilute it 1:1 with water for a really dirty job, 1:4 shampoo to water for regular use. Rinse well!
6) Natural Aloe Shampoo. Not any specific brand, but a gentle one made for people. I used this with Maguire when he was having some skin problems, and bathing him once a week with the aloe shampoo didn't irritate his skin or make him itchy. Smells good, too.
7) Self Rinse Plus…the purple stuff! This is no rinse shampoo. Use on feet after a muddy back yard, or before chalking on a white dog. Does a great job of cleaning, smells good, dries quickly. Use full strength for cleaning dirty feet; dilute 1:1 with water and apply with a spray bottle before chalking. A must for everyone who owns dogs. Wipe off with a hand towel.
8) Defend Flea Shampoo. This is more gentle than Adams, but is just as effective. I suggest this one, too.
9) Tres Emme (people shampoo). This is pretty inexpensive human shampoo. Mix it half-n-half with water. It leaves the coat very managable and smells really good! Great for before a show.

Conditioner Reviews:
I don't use conditioner rinses very often with my dogs. If anything I'll add something to the shampoo and rinse them at the same time.
1) J-B Conditioner. Once again, this is economical and dilutes 1:6 with water. A rich conditioner, it made Tucker's coat too limp. Works great on flyaway hairs, though.
2) Bonza Tea Tree Conditioner. I like this stuff. After shampooing but before rinsing, I massage into the coat. It rinses well and has a light tea tree smell. This leaves the coat smooth and tight, not limp. Great for any flaking of the skin. I believe they now sell Bonza products at PetSmart.
3) Cholesterol cream. You have to buy this at a human beauty supply store. Take about a tablespoon and mix it with about 1 cup of water, melt it in a bowl in the microwave so it can be mixed together. For a regular conditioning job, apply to the coat after rinsing the shampoo, then rinse very, very well. For a deep conditioning job, massage very well into the wet coat. Pay special attention to get it into the feathers and the back. Comb the dog with a medium-coarse comb so the hair lays flat. Now take a warm beach towel (out of the drier, if you can...and of course use a smaller towel depending on the size of your dog) and drape it over the dog like a horse blanket. Pin under the neck, stomach and tail, fitting the towel snug against the dog's body. Leave the towel on the dog for 10-15 minutes, then remove the towel and rinse really well. It works superbly.
4) V-O-5 Hot Oil Treatment. I tried this once. It was a mess. It was bad. Don't try it.

Dips
1) Paramite Dip. Buy this at your vet. It will kill anything that's small and has more than 4 legs. Use this only if you suspect that your dog will be in contact with fleas/ticks/mites or if he has contacted them. It smells gross, but it really works. The directions for mixing it are on the box, you can store it in a closed milk jug if you have leftover, and it will keep for about a month. When you first mix it up, it turns the water white. You should throw it out if it has been around long enough to clear up. If you want to make your favorite shampoo a good flea shampoo, add about a cup of the dip mixture to about a half-gallon of your shampoo.
2) Lemon Dip. This is outlined in Dr. Pitcairn's book, "Natural Health for Dogs and Cats." It works very well when a dog's skin is irritated from allergies, flea bites, etc. Take a whole lemon and slice it up. Add the lemon to about 5 cups of boiling water, let it simmer for about 10 minutes. Now take it off the burner, cover the pot, and let it sit overnight. Wet the dog with cool water, then sponge the lemon dip on the dog, letting it dry on the skin. It is very soothing.
3) Defend Permethrine Dip. Similar to Paramite, it works well to kill parasites.

Every week you should do some maintenance on your dog. These are pretty simple but they need to be addressed.

Ear Cleaning
You need to clean the dog's ears every time he is in contact with water. After a bath, after swimming. If you don't, he will most likely develop an ear infection. This is especially true for any breed that has dropped ears. The best type of ear cleaner is one that is applied liberally into the ear canal, massaged to loosen dirt and wax, then swabbed out. Leaving any liquid in the ear is asking for trouble, so I'm not a big fan of "drops." Before cleaning the ears, make sure to clip any hair away from the outer ear canal.
Ear Cleaner Reviews:
1) Like my favorite shampoo, the ear cleaner I use and suggest is a homemade mix. Simply mix 1 part white vinegar with 1 part rubbing alcohol. Both the vinegar and the alcohol will kill bacteria and break up wax, the alcohol dries the skin, and the vinegar is soothing to irritated tissue. This solution will also kill a low grade infection.
2) Oti-Clens. This is a general cleaning solution from the vet. I like this one, but it won't kill an infection. If your dog just gets really dirty ears, using this often is a good idea.
3) Halo Herbal Pet Ear Solution. This is a wonderful solution made of all sorts of good things. You may be able to find it in a health food store. Very soothing to the ears, it does a good job of cleaning and preventing infection. Highly suggested if you can find it.
4) Nolvasan Otic Ear Wash. Basically blue rubbing alcohol, this works relatively well, but I wouldn't pay $10 at the vet's for it.
5) Baby Gold Bond Medicated Powder. This will not clean the ears, however it will dry the ears out between cleanings. After you've cleaned the ears with a liquid solution and swabbed them dry, apply some Gold Bond powder on the outer ear and the inside of the ear flap. It really does a great job.

Nail Clipping
The nails should be kept very short. Long nails are inviting a range of health problems, not to mention the damage they can do to your floors! Each dog's nails grow at a different rate, but you should check them once a week. Generally, the front nails grow faster, and dew claws, if present, need to be clipped the most often because they cannot be filed down naturally by walking on concrete.
I suggest good, sturdy pinscher-type clippers, not guillotine-style. If you clip the nails regularly, you should only have to take off the tips to keep them short. If the quick has grown out, there is no need to hurt the dog and cut through the quick. The nail is made of two parts…the dead "shell" and the quick, which is supplied with blood and nerves. The quick forms a central shaft through the nail, and the shell surrounds it in the shape of an up-side-down "U", with the curving, up end the thickest. If the nails are very long, simply trim as far back as you can without hitting the quick. Now, by holding the clippers parallel to the flat side of the nail, trim the shell off, past the quick, leaving the quick exposed but not cut. You can feel the quick…it is soft and spongy. This way, the quick will wear down by itself and next time you cut the nails, you can cut the sides back some more, until the nail is the right length. The nails are the right length if you can't hear them clicking on the ground when the dog walks.

The best way to keep your dog's skin and hair in good shape is to groom every day. However, this isn't realistic for people with busy schedules, especially when the dog has long hair. But, keep in mind, it's much easier to do a quick once-over with the brush than take your dog to the groomer to get mats cut out. So, try to groom the dog at least twice a week…once after his bath and once between baths. I'll outline here a thorough way to groom your dog if he has medium-long hair, such as golden & flat coated retrievers, spaniels & setters, long-haired herding breeds, huskies, chow, poms, etc.
If your dog has short hair (lab, boxer, etc), I suggest a very fine comb or a hound glove…just once over the dog should do a good job. Believe it or not, rubbing the dog with a piece of velvet or silk after brushing will put a beautiful shine on those short coats.
Okay, now to grooming the goldens, etc. You will need:
1) Some sort of grooming/conditioning spray (see reviews below)
2) A bristle brush…a good sturdy one, preferably one that has 1 longer, plastic bristle for every tuft of short bristles
3) A metal pin brush, make sure the tips of the pins have been sanded down!
4) A wide toothed comb (metal)
5) A very fine flea comb (metal)
6) A small, soft slicker brush (use one made for cats)
7) Some sort of salve for bites & bumps on the skin (see reviews below)
I highly suggest grooming the dog on a grooming table, especially with a large dog. If you don't have a grooming table, try using a bench or something. With a small dog, you could use the bathroom counter or a coffee table. It will save your back and the dog won't walk all over the place while you try to groom him.
The first step is to spray the dog with your conditioning spray. Brushing the dog when his hair is dry will break the coat off and create static. Moisture is good for the coat. So spray the dog, then massage the spray into his coat with your hand. Make sure the spray is a fine mist, not a squirt!
Take your bristle brush, and starting at the dog's neck, with quick, firm strokes brush the hair up and against the lay of the hair. This separates the hairs so they don't tangle. Move to the dog's shoulders, then his chest, taking one section at a time, spraying the sections again if it has dried. Be careful when brushing out the long hairs on the legs & tail.
Next, take the metal pin brush and, one section at a time again, brush the hair back into it's natural position. Use the wide toothed comb to straighten out the long hair on the neck, chest, stomach, legs and tail. Now the dog should be looking good! For the finishing touches, take the little slicker brush and brush the short hair (on the front of the legs) up the legs, so the hair sticks out and makes the legs appear thicker. This loosens up any dirt on the legs. Use the flea comb on the dog's ears and throat. The flea comb can be used on the dog's whole body if he is shedding…I find that taking time to use a flea comb will take out more hair than any other brush.
If your dog is a breed that has long, silky hair (yorkies, shih tzus, beardies, etc) you will need to concentrate on combing out the dog's hair with the grain, not against it. Be sure to use the spray!!
When grooming your dog, you may come across bug bites or other irritations on the skin. It's best to apply a topical salve, then keep an eye on the area. I'll talk about caring for hot spots in the "Being the Resident Vet" section, as hot spots are a more serious issue.

Coat Spray Reviews:
1) Water. Water is perfectly fine to use, especially if you have no problem with flaky skin or static. Actually, you should use water most of the time if you groom every day (to reduce buildup of residue).
2) Crown Royale Bodifier. I use Bodifier most of the time. It is diluted about 1: 10 Bodifier to water, and I've had a bottle for three years and I still have half left, so it's a great deal. It's main purpose is to add fullness to the coat, but it leaves a good shine on the hair and smells really good. It does not leave a residue on the coat, which is one of the things I really appreciate about it. I really suggest using this. You can get it at just about any dog show vendor, and Drs. Foster & Smith sells it now, too.
3) Crown Royale Magic Touch Grooming Spray. This would be good for short-haired breeds, being that it doesn't work to fluff the coat up. It does put a nice shine on the coat, though.
4) #1 All Systems Humectant Conditioner. For some reason this stuff is incredibly popular with show people, but I can't stand it because the residue it leaves on the coat is terrible! I've tried diluting it down with water (which doesn't work so well becaue the #1AS Humectant is an oil and doesn't mix with water) about 1:20 parts water and it still leaves a residue. However, it does work well as a regular conditioner…either mix a few squirts with your shampoo, or rub into the coat after a bath and rinse.
5) Miracle Coat Tea Tree Sprays. Miracle Coat makes several different types of conditioning spray, all with tea tree oil. While it is good for the skin, it also leaves a bad residue on the coat, so I don't use it.
6) Cindra D-Limonene Spray. This is hard to find any more, but if you can, buy it! It has a very pleasant citrus smell, kills fleas, and conditions the coat. Doesn't leave a residue. I really like this stuff but as I said, it's hard to find.
7) Pet Organics Herbal Skin & Coat Rub. I used this on my aussie when his skin got very itchy. I put it in a spray bottle then rubbed it into his skin. It really did help stop the itching, and it smelled pretty "herbal." Try it, you may get good results.
8) Apple Cider Vinegar. Diluted with water, this can be used with the dog with poor coat condition. Spray on and rub in. The best way to find a spray conditioner you like is to experiment. Just try to stay away from anything too oily or ones that leave a residue on the coat.

Topical Salve Reviews:
1) Tea Tree Oil. This stuff will do wonders for any type of skin problem…bites, scratches, blisters, pimples, you name it. Highly suggested.
2) Diane's Nova Derm Cream. This works well on any type of problem, too. Keep in the refrigerator.
3) Halo Pet Products Skin Salve. Also works great on skin problems, even on burns.
4) Neosporan. Best for scratches and sores.
5) Panalog Ointment. This is stuff the vets love to push. I think Neosporan works just as well, except Panalog is good for ear infections. It is a bit greasy and the tube it comes in drives me nuts…it holds something like 1/1,000,000 of an ounce and if you leave the top off for even a second it squirts out by itself.
6) Benadryl Cream. Use this on any sort of bug bite to keep swelling down.
7) Cortizone Cream. Same uses as Benadryl cream.

One of the most important part of regular grooming is to examine your dog for any signs of ill health. Any persistant skin problems or lumps should be checked out by a vet.

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